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Sunday, 29 August 2021

Late summer moods with mushrooms

My walk took me through Machcin II; as I passed a small forest, mainly pines, I noted smell familiar from childhood - mushrooms. We used to pick mushrooms in Oxshott Common - but since leaving the parental home, I've not done it again. And (puzzlingly) never during my 24 years in Poland, where mushroom picking is a big thing. My parents taught me the mushroom-picking lore - the importance of podłoże - the terroir - sandy soil, pine trees, moss, dips in the forest floor, lift the whole mushroom out of the earth rather than cutting the stalk with a knife. We'd go armed with a wicker basket, which most Sunday mornings would contain 20 to 30 nice specimens. On return, the mushrooms would be dried or marinaded in jars of vinegar with onions and carrots. 

The smell brought it all back. I decide in an instant to turn off the path and go into the wood - just then I see a few metres away an old woman emerging from the trees, holding in her hand a large plastic shopping bag full of mushrooms. Six or seven kilos, I'd guess. Had she scoured the forest floor clean of all edible species? For the first time in decades, I take a determined look for Boletus edulis - prawdzwiki, porcini - in my books, the finest of all mushrooms, with a velvety brown cap and a creamy-yellow spongy underside. I spend about ten minutes and find nothing but various species of poisonous fungi, death caps (Amanita phalloides) and toadstools. Eating one is often lethal; death from liver and kidney failure ensues after six to 16 days. Nasty.

Clearly, the old woman has done a thorough job. I try another patch of forest a few hundred metres away. Again, ten minutes, head bowed, close to the forest floor. Again, plenty of fungi, none of them edible. Poisonous mushrooms make no attempt to hide themselves, the boletus is not easy to find. But then - bingo! That's a maślak żółty if memory serves me... (below, back on the działka). I put the pic up on Twitter and within minutes have my identification confirmed by Daria, Bożena and Janusz (many thanks!). I am drying these for future consumption. Incidentally, while Polish Wikipedia (link above) says that the maślak żółty (Suillus grevillei) "is tasty and has the texture of meat, English Wikipedia says that S. grevillei "is an edible mushroom (without consistency nor flavor) if the slimy cuticle is removed off the cap, which can cause intestinal issues".


But what are these? Prawdziwki? Skin on the cap is too light, not velvety, and there's a skin on the underside, beneath which lies a spongy flesh - pores, not rills. Any ideas? Immature maślaki?


Below: a puffball (Bovista aestivalis) - kurzawka zmienna. The local mushroom-picking community is completely uninterested in these. The zmienna ('changeable') in the name refers to how the insides change as the mushroom matures. Pick them early, the flesh is white and edible.


Leave it too late, and the flesh turns to spores, literally a million million of them (ten to the power of 12), which escape in a cloud as the mushroom finally bursts open to release them, its outer skin remaining like a deflated balloon. Below: the flesh has ripened. No good.

Below: can you smell that smell? Very characteristic of late summer/early autumn, especially after rain.


Below: nasty, poisonous 'shrooms, by the side of the path back to my działka, in plain sight, nibbled on by the wildlife. 


Below: a modern, well-invested commercial orchard. All correct. Trees kept low and tight, easy assess for cultivation and picking, under nets (keeps birds off). Apples are a dependable crop; an ever-greater acreage of local land is heading this way. And yet the boletus resists all attempts to cultivate it commercially.



This time seven years ago:
The Vistula from on high

This time 10 years ago:
Bad car day

This time 11 years ago:
Dragonfly summer

This time 12 years ago:
"What do we want?" "Early retirement!"

This time 14 years ago:
Greenhouse sunset

4 comments:

  1. So a minefield of puffballs.! The Latin name you gave , comes up on my google search as a Californian puffball.
    The giant puffball Langermannia gigantea is edible,and can get to the size of a football.Once it produces spores, it is inedible.(there is a great Hugh Fearneley Whittingstall episode on cooking these)
    The small one you show looks like a common earthball ,which is inedible .
    My partner Richard thinks the little mushrooms are birch boletes.
    I always hated mushrooms, my GP dad always got large jars of slimy mushrooms as presents from his patients. Urgh.


    As to collecting mushrooms in a plastic bag…….baskets please!

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  2. @ Helena -

    The disparities in Polish vs English mushroom Wikipedia are enough to put one off looking for them. One says 'good to eat', the other, 'no'. And despite scientific binomial conventions, one is not necessarily the other!

    I just spent 24 hours off-działka in Jeziorki and in town, and came back to these guys in my kitchen. One maślak drying nicely - the other crawling with maggots (remember Harry Enfield's L is for Labour?) Put me off it all.

    Can't see myself doing this again - unless in the company of someone who knows what they're doing (as my parents did - baskets not bags!). An Afghan refugee boy died in Poland today after eating a poisoned mushroom.

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  3. 🤣🤣I d never seen that Harry Enfield sketch!! Though not accurate as they were maggots……
    Have just been watching Harry Enfield as Prince Charles in the Windsors. Superb -and prophetic.

    Very sad to hear about the mushroom poisoning of the young Afghani-I did nt realise there were any refugees from Afghanistan in Polska.

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  4. @ The Windsors - was blissfully unaware of this - must watch some more!

    Most refugees coming into Poland are from the Middle East, being piped in by Lukashenka as a form of hybrid warfare, rather as Putin did in 2015/16. Will be increasing numbers from Afghanistan, but hopefully through more official channels than across barbed-wire fences from Belarus.

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