Saturday, 17 August 2013

Two Warsaw sunsets over water

The nights are drawing in, we're now closer to equinox than to solstice so each day is getting noticeably shorter. The sun now rises before half past five am and sets before eight pm - we've lost over an hour of daylight at the beginning and end of each day.

Below: today's sunset over the Vistula, with that aspiring skyline of Our City pushing on every upward. Though the temperature was still 25C as the sun set, this (unPhotoshopped) image looks like gilded ice - la glace doré...


Friday's sunset, a bit more parochial - the pond on ul. Pozytywki here in Jeziorki, below, with many ducks, ducklings, coots and cootlings settling down for the night. The sun has set, but the street lights are not yet on.


This time last year:
Ten minutes over Warsaw

This time two years ago:
Warszawa Zachodnia - before the remont

This time three years ago:
Happiness, Polish-style

This time four years ago:
And watch the river flow...

This time six years ago:
Armed forces' day parade

Tuesday, 13 August 2013

Metro Centrum - closed for the summer

A short post for the record. For all of July and August, Metro Centrum is closed so that the second line of the Metro can be driven across the first line at Świętokrzyska. I've been avoiding the Metro this summer, only once did I have to get across town by public transport. I did this by taking the train to Metro Politechnika, then catching a tram up towards Żoliborz.


Above: STACJA ZAMKNIĘTA - 'station closed'. It's half past eleven, hardly any one around - this is the patelnia - 'frying-pan' - usually a very busy place.

At the same time, the suburban east-west railway line from W-wa Zachodnia to W-wa Wschodnia, is closed for refurbishment. All trains crossing Warsaw have to use the inter-city main line tracks; the result is chaos at rush-hour. W-wa Śródmieście serves only a handful of trains serving Okęcie airport.

Tip for travellers - the ticket office at W-wa Śródmieście is open and completely unused. Rather than try to buy your suburban train tickets at Centralna amidst massive queues, buy them at Śródmieście and walk across to the platforms at Centralna to board your train to Radom or Żyrardów or Dęblin.

Grodzisk Maz and its pretty station

Poland has some lovely examples of railway station architecture. Here is Grodzisk Mazowiecki station, along Line No. 1 (Warsaw-Katowice). Some 30km from W-wa Centralna, Grodzisk Maz. as a town exudes more wealth than other places a similar distance from Our City, wealth created recently on the influx of manufacturing plants and distribution centres.

The current building replaces the original station (opened in 1845), which was badly damaged during WW1. Built in the early 1920s, its architectural style is Polish Dworkowy, the dworek being the manor house beloved of the landed gentry. A style that made a come-back in the 1990s, but is now less in favour among architects and their clients. However, in this guise, it is a style most befitting a railway station serving an exurban community of 30,000 with strong transport links to the capital.

Below: the front elevation, seen from ul. 1 Maja. A balanced composition, pleasing to the eye. I like deep attics that have more than one floor; I wonder what's up there in the station attic? The steps leading up to the main entrance are wooden. Awaiting replacement, or simply wooden steps?


Below: the elevation facing the tracks. Note the 1930s shelters, similar to those that grace the platforms of the stations on the line running towards Otwock. And the metal-plated clock tower, and buttressed end wall. We can't see the typeface of the station name carved in stone above the main platform entrance; it is early 1920s and a gem of Polish typography.


Walking in from the street towards the platform, we pass though an airy vestibule (below), reminding me of Polish public buildings from the 1920s, such as Poznań's city hall. As I took this photo, a lady popped out from the buffet (to the left) and asked me to photograph the damp on the ceiling caused, she said, by water dripping down from the blocked-up gutters. Sadly, I had to explain that I was a mere amateur of railway architecture and not working for the local newspaper...


Below: the main ticket hall-cum-waiting room. Note lack of any electronic signage, and the (closed) booth selling PKS bus tickets. But compared to many Polish small towns of its size, I felt a certain confidence about the people in and around the station.


Certainly one of he nicer stations I've passed through; two half-hour long waits here proved Most rewarding. I feel some more Polish inter-war architecture should come to my readers' attention before too very long...

This time last year:
Exorcism by the President's Palace

This time two years ago:
The raging footsoldier - a story about anger

This time three years ago:
Graffiti and street art

Sunday, 11 August 2013

End to end: cycle ride along unopened S2 and S79

Lovely weather, no one on site, time then to go further than I did yesterday - time to cycle as far as I can along the S2 from Puławska right up to Węzeł Al. Krakowska. Traffic is now using the S2, from Konotopa where it branches off from the A2 motorway. The final section to be opened (in this phase) is that from Węzeł (junction) Al. Krakowska through to Węzeł Puławska via Węzeł W-wa Południe (or W-wa Lotnisko as it was originally known). I cycled this, and then swung along the S79 past the airport to its northern end - and back again to the S79's southern end.

So then - the best photos from my 36km bike ride today...

Looking eastwards at Ursynów. The viaduct in the middle distance is the one carrying ul. Poloneza over the S2. Blocks in the background on ul. Pileckiego.

Looking down onto the S2 from the S79; this is the infamous wanna ('bath') that runs under the railway line to Radom and the S79 expressway. At last, it is nearing completion. However, no east-west passage anywhere around here for pedestrians or cyclists. 
Why the S2 will not be opened by the end of next month - not so much the Grand Canal as the Grand Canyon. A 100-plus metre gap that needs to be spanned and asphalted, plus all the usual infrastructure. 'PZM' = Przejście dla Zwierząt Małych  ('crossing for small animals'); this small tunnel is located over the canal itself.

The S2 westbound approaching Al. Krakowska. Get in the right-hand lanes to turn off towards Ochota and the city centre. Lovely to see such beautiful infrastructure in use by nothing but bicycles! 

Finally, in the distance, traffic is coming off the S2 to join Al. Krakowska. On the other carriageway (to the right), cars joining the S2 can now drive west without encountering traffic lights until they reach Lisbon.

Recently (partially) opened, the slip-road from the airport now offers a link to and from ul. Marynarska. Note orange cross through the south-bound directions (to Sandometer).

Looking south along the S79 from the airport slip-road. To the left, an SKM train waits at W-wa Okęcie station. Note the footbridge that stops short of connecting the station platforms.
The flooded moat outside the Tsarist-era Fort Zbarz, visible from the cycle-path that runs alongside ul. Wirażowa once it's passed the airport slip-road. Wirażowa lies parallel to the S79, carrying (very) local traffic.

The view looking northwards along the S79 from the slip-road connecting the airport to the expressway. Crossed-out roadsign suggests one day this road will take you to Ursus. You have a long wait before that day.

The northern end of the S79, ending abruptly in front of an earth rampart, beyond which is ul. 1 Sierpnia. One day, the S79 will run northward of here; by what route and by when is still mucho misterioso.
Much road-building equipment is parked under the new viaducts on ul. Marynarska. Work here is reaching and end too, although there was hardly anything going on today.
South of Węzeł W-wa Południe, the S79 is about to come to an end. Despite the fact that no further work will be seen beyond here for several years, there's full lighting and barriers right to the end.
As though an earthquake has abruptly sliced the motorway - the southern end of the S2 stops dead in a muddy field. 

This time last year:
Kraks and back in a day by train

This time two years ago:
Fountains by the New Town

This time three years ago:
Old-School Saska Kępa

This time four years ago:
The land, the light

This time five years ago:
Rainbow over Jeziorki

This time six years ago:
Previously in Portmeirion

The end of the S2 takes shape

Last week as I mentioned the first, seven kilometre-long section of the S2 from Konotopa to Al. Krakowska opened to traffic, 14 months after the original deadline. Today, I cycled along the final stretch of the S2, from Węzeł W-wa Południe (originally known as Węzeł Lotnisko), to the end, beyond Węzeł Puławska. This being the stump of the S2 protruding east of ul. Puławska, a stump awaiting a further push onwards under Ursynów to the Vistula, over it via a new river crossing, then onwards via the Mińsk Maz bypass as the A2 to the Belorusian border. This (we presume) will be built at a similar tempo and to a similar quality to the rest of the S2.

Although the sky was bruising and clouds threatened another downpour, there were plenty of cyclists out along the S2, still a couple of months (at least) ahead of its official opening. Below: looking east towards Puławska, in the foreground a roadsign misleadingly directing drivers straight on to Terespol and the border (wait at least six years for this), or turn right to Sandometer (Sandomierz). A daft destination to put on a roadsign. 'Piaseczno and the South', it should read. Sand City's bigger and much nearer than Sandometer.


Below: the S2 crosses Puławska on the viaduct to the right of this pic (which is looking west this time). To the left, the embankment carrying the Warsaw Metro link line. But what's this? To my huge surprise, a bus stop. This rather suggests that ZTM is planning to run buses along the S2?


Below: is this a hair-pin bend on the Monaco Grand Prix circuit? No, this is the end of the S2. From the left: traffic coming up from Puławska will be merging with traffic from Poznań and Berlin (coming down the second lane from left) while the former traffic heads for Poznań and Berlin (up the third lane from left) and the latter crosses the former, heading for Warsaw (up the fourth lane from left).


Traffic lights will be installed here, which at least will cut down on serious accidents as two heavy streams of traffic merge, but I predict traffic jams stretching back to the airport at peak times. Below: a road-engineer's plan of how things will work east of Puławska. Click to enlarge. If you live south of here, this is how you'll be getting onto the S2 once it opens...


The M25, along which I travelled early last week, is a good object lesson for Warsaw. London's ring-road may be five or even six lanes in each direction - but can be thoroughly clogged. Imagine - six lanes of traffic stationary in each direction - that's what Eddie and I experienced last Monday week heading anti-clockwise between the M40 and M3. And the S2, Warsaw's southern by-pass, is just two lanes in each direction.

How much longer before the S2 opens finally? End of September I doubt, but by mid-autumn, before the first snows, is, I think, doable.

This time last year:
A day in Jewish Kraków

This time three years ago:
Dismal graffiti yields to street art, W-wa Żwirki i Wigury
[Photos for the record only; they were sprayed over by the mindless spray-can morons weeks later]

This time four years ago:
A dove in the house

This time five years ago:
Coming in to land from the east

Friday, 9 August 2013

Hottest week ever

It's official - yesterday's temperatures in Warsaw were the highest ever recorded. At 37C, it didn't feel too bad (to me anyway) as the air was also remarkably dry (37% humidity). At four o'clock this morning, the temperature bottomed out at 23C, and so, the hottest day was followed by the hottest night. Click to enlarge and look closely at the chart on the left!


What does it feel like at 37C? It's worth bearing in mind that in the UK, 20C (68F in old money) feels hot. 26C in London is a heatwave. 37C is body heat.

The asphalt on the Most Północny (North Bridge) was melting today, a year and three months after it was opened. (Link here - thanks Marcin Daniecki. )It does make one think - Warsaw regularly experiences temperature fluctuations of over 65 degrees Celsius (from -25C to +35C) within the course of the year.

Followers of Warsaw University of Technology's Physics Institute meteorology website will have noticed the recent addition of the storm detectors (one in the north-east of Poland, one in the south-west). Looking at it as I write, I can see that Warsaw may just escape a maximal soaking, and that Łódź is getting it in the neck right now.


Indeed, as I write, sipping a Chilean red and listening to an Eagles album (!), I can hear the first rain drops against the windows, as forecast. The thunder is rumbling... a flash of thunder... Time to get the camera on the tripod...


UPDATE, 01:30. The storm's passed; the rain was intensive, the lightning magnificent.

This time last year:
Progress along the second line of the Warsaw Metro

This time two years ago:
Doric arches, ul. Targowa

This time three years ago:
A place in the country, everyone's ideal

This time six years ago:
I must go down to the sea again

Thursday, 8 August 2013

Behold and See - Part Five

Passing into the courtyard of the cathedral, Hanka noted that the crowd was being kept in good order by several men wearing altar-servers' frocks, gently moving everyone forward towards one of the side entrances. Log scaffolding covered much of the front and side of the building, which had suffered significant damage during the war. There was a long wait to enter; it was nearly eleven o'clock and time for Mass.

It was cool and dark inside when Hanka was finally admitted, part of a group of 20 or 30 worshippers. The cathedral was full, but there were many people filing out, from the previous mass. That familiar scent of incense and candles reassured Hanka. Around her, many of the faithful began to weep as the entered; a satisfaction of being in the presence of a wondrous miracle. People filed into pews, everyone wanting to be as near as possible to the painting, which was where it always had been, to the left of the high altar, in full view of the entire cathedral. The church wardens bade the visitors be seated so that all could behold the painting.


Hanka was some six or seven rows back, never having been inside such a huge church. She could clearly see it. In front of her, she could hear prayer, mumbled rosaries, the choking back of sobs, all lost in a greater silence. Some altar boys prepared the altar for the next mass.

Suddenly, a gasp - "There! See! A tear! See! She weeps! She weeps blood!" Hanka leaned forward... Indeed. She could just make out a small, dark red bead, the size of her thumbnail, which had appeared, glistening, in the corner of the Madonna's right eye, and had started rolling slowly down the cheek, towards Her scars.

Hanka would never experience the same manifestations of spiritual ecstasy as she did that moment. She prayed - she prayed to forget; she prayed for an end to her fears, she prayed for happiness in her life.

Hugged from within by a loving kindness, her own eyes brimmed with tears of joy, an overwhelming conviction that at last all would be well. A sudden calmness and clarity of mind washed over Hanka. She felt blessed, cleansed and whole. Around her, she experienced the feeling that others were experiencing something similar. Spontaneously she rose to her feet, standing on the wooden kneeler in front of her; she threw her arms in the air, waving her fingers, wanting to catch that miraculous air that filled the cathedral. Dozens of people beside her, behind her, also stood up. She did not want that moment to pass, that experience to fade. That sensation within her was so strong; a powerful sense of peace, security and love of life. The bad things that had happened to her, that she'd witnessed - she felt them shrinking at an accelerating pace into a small dark blemish on the handrail of the pew before her - and then disappear.

Eventually the moment would fade as a peal of altar bells and the antiphon ad introitus signalled the beginning of Holy Mass. Hanka stayed, keeping her eyes on the Madonna and the moist track glistening on the painting's cheek. By the end of mass, as the congregation filed out of the cathedral, those who stayed on a little longer in front of the Madonna had noticed that the painting was completely dry.

Hanka returned that night hungry but happy to her aunt's house. After she left Lublin, the authorities cracked down on the manifestation of the miraculous painting. A few days later, many people were trampled, and a young woman died, after a plank was thrown from the top of the scaffolding into the crowd gathering to enter the cathedral. There was a panic, a fear that the building was toppling. The communists used public safety as a cover for repressions, arresting over 300 people including several priests and laymen from the cathedral. By the end of that month, the hubbub had subsided.

For Hanka, 64 years on, the events of Sunday 10 July 1949 would remain firmed etched in her memory; she can bring about the same, exact spiritual state she experienced that day back in total clarity at will. That blessed memory had helped her throughout her long and happy life; long may it continue to do so.

This time last year:
Syrenki in Warsaw

This time two years ago:
What's the Polish for 'impostor'?

This time three years ago:
Running with the storm on the road to Mamrotowo

This time five years ago:
St Pancras Station - new gateway to London

This time six years ago:
Mountains or sea? North Wales has them both




Wednesday, 7 August 2013

Behold and See - Part Four

Hanka indeed had angels watching over her; kind, caring angels that saw to it that not a single dog reacted to the smell of a frightened child hiding across the railway tracks. Once the trucks had driven away, and the coast was clear, Hanka stood up, brushed the dust off her grey cotton dress, and crossed the tracks and the yard in front of the station. She knew that Lublin was not too far away, though just how far, and in what direction, she knew not.

Following the tracks would lead to Lublin, she figured, though she'd have to keep low, watch out for people, and hurry - as she looked back at the station, she could see its clock, it had already gone six-thirty. She still had food, enough for two modest meals, and a bottle filled with water from the well.

The first two hours walking passed without incident; no one saw her, she saw only a few people working the fields alongside the tracks or walking along the road. As the sun rose higher, the temperature rose, it was no longer pleasantly warm. The next station, Stasin, was deserted; soon after the railway line entered a small forest. Hanka figured she must have been walking for the best part of two hours. She ate a sandwich, drank some water. As the trees finally parted, she could see Lublin. A town bigger than any she'd ever looked upon. Factory chimneys, some church spires on the horizon, a town on a low hill.

Time to take extra care. She would need to find the cathedral of St. John; but first, she had to get to the town centre. The railway line crossed a river; beyond it ran through an area with many factories. Hanka decided to follow the river instead. She passed some kind of sports stadium, then walked along meadows, the town getting nearer and nearer. Finally - another bridge, but this one carrying a main road that ran right up the hill. But on the bridge were soldiers and militia-men. They were controlling everyone that wanted to cross. She could see many people turning back. It occurred to her that had she crossed the river further back, she could avoid the checkpoint. There was no other way - sadly Hanka had to retrace her steps to a small wooden bridge in the meadows that she'd previously ignored. Crossing it, she found herself on a street of low and poor-looking houses.

An elderly woman dressed in black stood in a doorway. Hanka looked directly into her eyes and solemnly asked of her the way to the Cathedral where the miraculous Madonna was weeping tears of blood. "Child!" replied the old woman. "I have been. It is true. Go - see for yourself! I see you have come far... Go - up to the end of the road, then follow the crowds!"

And there were crowds at the end of the road. And Hanka blended in with them; they were singing about the angelic choirs praising Maryja, in a measured tempo, faces turned upwards, not cowed; undefeated. As the procession approached the Old Town, it reached a crossroads at which an army truck stood stationary, surrounded by militia-men armed with pistols and truncheons. Atop the vehicle was a pair of loudspeakers, from which a voice was droning... "People! This is a provocation! There is no miracle! It is only resin seeping from the wood! The clergy are attempting to incite you against People's Poland! Go home! Disperse! There is no miracle! There is nothing to see! This is superstition!"

There was little reaction to this; the crowd shuffled on; some hot-heads spoiling for a fight with the militia had to be calmed down (Hanka learnt that there had been some scuffles and arrests the previous day. She'd also been told that the tears were not resin or sap, as the painting was on canvas, not on wood). More and more militia-men and interior ministry troops were seen blocking side-roads, especially those that led to local Party, security, militia or government buildings. And still they kept moving forward, singing, praying, or in silence.

For the first time since the Red Army took control of Lublin five years ago did the local population show such defiance in the face of their new masters. This was not counter-revolution orchestrated out of Washington or London; this was a spontaneous outpouring of faith. The power of the one institution that the Polish United Workers' Party had failed to crush, the Roman Catholic Church, lay not in the clergy but in the faithful. And together, in faith, they felt strong - not even Stalin and all his tanks and artillery could keep them from coming to pay homage to the Miraculous Madonna.

Before long, the procession had turned onto Ulica Królewska and at last the towers of the cathedral loomed over them. Hanka felt strong despite being extremely tired. For the first time in her life, she exulted in a sense of triumph.

Click here for Part Five of the story.

This time last year:
A new-found fascination for Mars
[A year on - what have we found there? Not a whole lot...]

This time two years ago:
Rhetorical question: why the fuss?

This time three years ago:
Varsovians! Ditch the car - buy a quarterly karta miejska
[Today 250zł, still excellent value at 4zł per working day]

This time four years ago:
The limited interests of mankind's geniuses

This time five years ago:
Into the fading light

This time six years ago:
Ar y Ffordd i Pwyl Rhydd