Thursday, 8 October 2009

Trampled Underfoot

Across Łazienki Park back to the office. A different way this time; further along ul. Agricola. And what's this I see? A monument to the Unknown Polish Pedestrians? No, on horseback this is King Jan III Sobieski, whose army relieved the Turkish siege of Vienna, thus saving Europe from invasion from the East. (For the first time*. Poles would save Europe from barbaric hordes again in 1920, and in 1944. The 63-day long Warsaw Uprising ensured Stalin's tanks got no further west than the Elbe).

Beneath the hoofs of the triumphant king not hapless pedestrians, but Turkish Janissaries. (Click on pics for larger image.)

The statue itself's a bit ...er... clumsy. At first sight, I took the rider to be Ben Turpin, silent film comedy actor. And what's to be made of the inscription (in Polish) on the right-hand shield?

In Polish this reads: "IANOWI III, K(rólowi) P(olski i) W(ielkiemu) X(ięciu) L(itewskiemu), OYCZYZNY Y SOIUSZNIKÓW OBROŃCY, KTÓREGOŚMY POSTRADALI R(oku 1696).
S(tanisław) A(ugust) K(ról). R(ok) 1788"

'Postradać' means 'to lose' (ie he died in 1696). Note how Polish spelling has changed over the centuries; 'i' and 'y' have mutated into 'j', 'y' into an 'i', 'x' into a 'ks'.

In English: "To John III, King of Poland and Grand Duke of Lithuania, Defender of the Fatherland and its Allies, whom we lost in 1696. Stanislaus August, King. 1788."

* Some say Poland saved Europe from the Golden Horde at Legnica when Genghis Khan's Mongol Army swept westward. But historians say the Golden Horde, who actually won the battle, went home to elect a new Khan when the old one died.

WEATHER REPORT:
It was a bizarre day weatherwise. Overcast with some sunny spells, wind from the west, and the temperature... daytime high of +24C! In mid-October! In the night, it will to tumble to +5C; a massive difference.

This time last year:
Proto park'n'ride at W-wa Jeziorki

Wednesday, 7 October 2009

Across the Pennines by rail

On Saturday, we returned to Doncaster Robin Hood Airport, announded by our Polish pilot as 'lotnisko imienia Robina Hooda', accentuating the absurdity. 'How about Snow White International', joked Eddie. We travelled via the First TransPennine Express train from Stockport (above). And the views from the window were splendid - even better than going by bus.

The hills invite me out for a long bike ride, windy roads over the ridges, rural pub lunches, bracing weather, rich autumnal colours.

There were three trans-Pennine rail routes; the closing of the Woodhead Line left but two (Stockport-Sheffield and Manchester-Huddersfield). There is a campaign to re-open the Woodhead Line - I wish it well. This is the very beautiful backbone of England; fewer cars and trucks, I say, more trains and bikes.

And on to Sheffield (right), and thence to Doncaster. A tip for travellers - the airport is quite a way from the station. Buses take ages, are not as frequent as they are at, say, Luton, and are not cheap. There are plentiful taxis plying the route, mainly big Mercedes-Benz Vitos that can take five passengers and baggage. Cost - less than 14 quid. Split five ways (if you can), it works out a better bet than the bus.

This time last year:
And Polish railways are better?

This time two years ago:
"You'll look funny when you're fifty"
Autumn proper began 7 October - three weeks later than this year
Ul. Nawłocka gets sewerage - why don't we get sewerage?

Tuesday, 6 October 2009

Autumn evening, central Warsaw

Gone are the days of cycling to work - until April 2010. The nights draw in, we go from one-layer mornings to three-layer ones; an overcoat was needed today. And although today was sunny, the likelihood of cold showers increases.

Driving or taking the bus down ul. Puławska is totally unbearable these days. So commute options are two: 1) Drive to Platan Park for morning meeting, then Park'n'Ride (Metro then bus to office), or 2) walk to W-wa Jeziorki and take Koleje Mazowieckie train to Powiśle.

Today I took the train. Top: Al. Jerozolimskie from outside W-wa Powiśle station, looking west. In the distance, on the horizon, the Novotel and Marriott hotels.

Sunday, 4 October 2009

Autumnal bike ride

It was a blustery day, the wind gusting strongly from the west. No longer a one-layer cycling day, an over-layer of Goretex jacket and trousers were required, rain always a possibility. I decided to head east, the wind in my back. But first I cycled through Piaseczno (below). You don't have to go far out of Warsaw to encounter provincial Poland!


Beyond Piaseczno and Zalesie are the Lasy Chojnowskie forests. This 10,000 hectare expanse of woodland, over ten times the size of Warsaw's Las Kabacki forest, stretches in a wide belt from the south west to the south east of Warsaw. At its eastern end lies the town of Góra Kalwaria, my destination. From there, rather than cycle into the wind, I'd take the train home. Right: cycle path in the woods, near Kąty.

The tailwind is so strong, I reach Góra Kalwaria station a lot sooner than planned. Time, then, to battle into the wind and head west to Czachówek Wschodni. From here, I can get the same train home I was intending to catch from Góra Kalwaria.

The clouds clear, and for an hour or so, I'm blessed with strong, low sunlight that makes for magical landscape photography. The forest is beginning to look autumnal.

Out of the trees, into a large clearing alongside the railway line (below). I cycle on, and soon I'm at Czachówek Wschodni station. I'm still well ahead of schedule. The weather turns; dark clouds threaten.


It starts raining as the Góra Kalwaria train arrives. As there's no shelter at Czachówek Wschodnia, I jump on board the train for the one stop. The ticket is a very reasonable 10 złotys (Czachówek-GK-W-wa Jeziorki, including bike). I photographed the innovative bike hangers last summer; not easy to get your bike on this if encumbered with panniers, mudguards and waterbottles.

The train is emptied at Góra Kalwaria as it goes into sidings beyond the end of the platform. Fortunately, there's a shelter at the station; just as I got the bike off the train, the heavens opened. A small group of people with prams, fishing rods and bicycles crowded under the shelter waiting for the train to turn around.

The rainstorm was short; by the time the train neared Warsaw, the sky had cleared. Right: Pulling out of Nowa Iwiczna station, at the unguarded, ungated level crossing. The sun has just set behind the clouds on the horizon; it is just before six. The day's already half an hour shorter than at equinox.

Friday, 2 October 2009

Funeral of Tadeusz Lesisz


Above: Standards outside the church. To the fore, the Royal British Legion. Former Polish WWII infantrymen, paratroopers, armoured troops and airmen were also present. There were well over 200 mourners in the church, the interior of which had been designed by Tadeusz Lesisz.

The coffin is draped with the wartime ensign of ORP Błyskawica.

Representatives of the Polish Navy with representative of Polish Army WWII veterans, Zdzisław Picheta. Centre: Henryk Strzelecki, founder of the Henri Lloyd clothing brand.


Left: Front row, from left: Krysia Lesisz-McNicholl, Wanda Lesisz, Barbara Dembinska, Janina Rożecka (Wanda's sister). Back row, from left: Marek Dembinski, Edmund Dembinski, Bohdan Dembinski, Monika Dembinska.

Sunday, 27 September 2009

Order from chaos

I decided to rationalise the contents of our garage - too much junk. But before throwing out old bicycle frames, wheels, bits and bobs, I did something I'd been thinking about for a couple of weeks, namely building a fixed-gear bicycle (result below).

The frame and forks were from an old Trek 800. The wheels from an old Raleigh roadster (with a fixed-gear rear hub). The front brake, handlebars, stem and seatpost came from my old Klein Pinnacle (I loved that bike! Cracked head tube put the frame out of action), and the saddle was the one from my Cannondale Caffeine F2 that I replaced with a classic Brooks B66.

Fixed-gear riding is a philosophy in itself; you'll see urban bicycle couriers adopting this type of mount. It is the lightest, simplest of bikes; there's no freewheel at the back, when the wheels turn, the pedals turn and vice-versa. You develop supple legs. You truly become one with your bike. Fixed-gear bicycles are traditionally used for winter training by cyclists; there's no gear mechanisms for the road grime to get into. When you see a cyclist riding one of these around town, you will see a cyclist with attitude and commitment.

Putting the bike together put me into a reflective state of mind; there's something about mechanical engineering that is deeply satisfying to the human soul. Working with tools. I still have a vast box of bicycle-oriented tools, bottom-bracket extractors, chain-link separators, axle spanners, etc however, I was missing a flat 10mm spanner, which I needed to adjust the brake.

I bought one at the supermarket. Less than one zloty. Big mistake. Uh... too small. Buy an 11mm spanner. Ah! Too big. But the nut is 10mm. Being from a Shimano XT brake, it is 10mm. That cheapo spanner's the wrong size. Moral: NEVER SAVE ON CHEAP TOOLS.

Today's consumerist world is about production, not craftsmanship. Churn out a much as possible, as cheaply as possible. So that repair, by a skilled craftsman is not economically viable. The craftsman is a dying breed. The watchsmith, cobbler (as opposed to 5-minute heel bar operator), locksmith, and indeed bicycle repair man, are driven from the market by goods which cost less to replace than to fix.

Here I blame Adam Smith and Henry Ford. In his famous treatise about pin manufacturers, Smith notes economic benefit of the division of labour (with workers doing separate tasks involved rather the creation of the pin, than craftsmen crafting entire pins themselves). Ford took this notion to its logical conclusion - the assembly line.

But where is the human satisfaction from stretching wire or tightening the same nut all day long? Hundreds of millions of people do this, for the money, so that billions more can enjoy a cheaper washing machine, television or car.

Yesterday, though, I had immense satisfaction from building a working bicycle out of, well, junk, and having a clean garage to show for it.

For the record, it has a 36-tooth chainring and 16-tooth sprocket, giving it a 60 inch gear (i.e. for every one revolution of the cranks, the bike moves forward 60 inches, just over a metre and half.) The combination of 27" wheels and small off-road frame alters the geometry. The rear tyre has to be deflated in order to get the wheel to fit in the rear triangle, clearances are small. But ground clearance on the cranks is greater (essential, as you cannot hold the pedals in horizontal position when going around a tight bend as you can with a freewheel hub).

Wednesday, 23 September 2009

Lieutenant-Commander Tadeusz Lesisz

My father-in-law died in hospital this morning, aged 91. He was one of the the world’s last surviving WWII veterans to have served as an officer from the very first day of the conflict until its last. As gunnery officer, he sailed on Polish vessels under the command of the Royal Navy, participating in the Battle of the Atlantic, the Arctic Convoys, Operation Torch and at D-Day. He was in command of the anti-aircraft guns on a Polish destroyer, the ORP Błyskawica, berthed in Cowes on the night of 4/5 May 1942; the ship’s formidable barrage prevented more widespread destruction of the Isle of Wight port during a German air raid. Above: Lieutenant Lesisz on board the Błyskawica, spring 1942.

Remaining in Britain after the war, he studied architecture, eventually establishing himself as a partner in a Bolton architectural practice, Greenhalgh & Williams, where he worked for nearly 35 years. As chairman of the Manchester branch of the Federation of Poles in Great Britain, he dedicated much of his spare time to serving the Polish community which had settled in North West England after WW2.

Tadeusz Lesisz was born in Kozienice, 100 km south of Warsaw, on 10 February 1918, ten months before the re-establishment of a Polish Republic, Tadeusz Lesisz was the youngest of nine surviving children born to Franciszek, a local merchant, and Wiktoria.

Following his three brothers, he was enrolled in cadet school, where he would receive an education with the armed forced of the nascent Polish state. He joined the cadet corps at 13, graduating five years later. Like his brothers, Edward, Feliks and Edmund, who were to join the army, he also chose to stay in the military, though choosing to continue his studies in the Naval Officers’ School in Toruń, then Gdynia. He learned to sail on tall ships and had the chance to visit distant and exotic shores. His naval upbringing instilled in him a strong sense of self-discipline and life-long orderliness and, to his last days he dressed formally with jacket and tie or cravat. He graduated just weeks before the outbreak of the War. His choice of the navy proved fortuitous: none of his brothers were to survive the war; Edmund was murdered by the Gestapo in Murnau, Edward and Feliks by the Soviets in Katyń.

The outbreak of war found Tadeusz Lesisz serving as a newly-commissioned second lieutenant on the ORP Burza (‘Storm’). The day before German forces invaded Poland on 1 September 1939, the Polish fleet sailed secretly to Britain from where, as part of the Royal Navy, it was to continue the fight against the Third Reich. After Royal Navy courses in anti-submarine warfare and naval gunnery he found himself, in July 1940, second-in-command of S3, one of several motor gun boats assigned to Polish crews. Based at Fowey in Cornwall, the Polish-crewed boats were charged with protecting shipping in the Channel and reconnoitring the approaches to the French ports. Duels with German E-boats were frequent, although S3’s career came to an end when she hit a German mine on the approaches to Fowey harbour. (More info on S3 and Polish MGBs here and here. Both articles feature photos of Tadeusz Lesisz.)

In January 1941, he joined the Polish destroyer Błyskawica, (Lightning). When launched, it was the world’s fastest warship. Built by J. Samuel White in Cowes in 1935, she was capable of nearly 40 knots. Lt. Lesisz saw action in the icy North Atlantic, protecting Allied convoys on the North-western approaches.

In spring 1942, Błyskawica was being repaired and having her main guns upgraded, in dry dock in Cowes, when the port suffered a series of air raids, the most intense, involving 160 bombers, on the night of 4/5 May. The Błyskawica was the only vessel in port, but with her anti-aircraft guns glowing red, she managed to put up such a dense barrage and smokescreen that the town and dock were spared heavier destruction, although over 70 died in the bombing. Sailors not needed to man the ships gun’s fought fires in Cowes and brought first aid to the wounded. In gratitude, the Błyskawica was given freedom of the town; the main square of Cowes was later named for the vessel’s captain, Wojciech Francki.

In October 1942, Błyskawica was escorting the liner Queen Mary as she carried American troops to Britain, and witnessed the tragedy that befell another escort, HMS Curacoa, cut in half when she inadvertently sailed in front of the Queen Mary; only 90 of the 420 on board survived. A month later, Błyskawica, which had been assigned to Force ‘H’, took part in Operation Torch, the Allied landings in North Africa, escorting landing craft and troopships. The ship was bombed by German aircraft in the Algerian harbour of Bougie; a near-miss killed three and injured a fifth of Błyskawica’s crew. The ship's hull and superstructure was penetrated in over 200 places.

In July 1943, Lt Lesisz was re-assigned to ORP Dragon, (a WW1-vintage cruiser given to the Poles by the Royal Navy), where he was second gunnery officer. After artillery training at Scapa Flow, the Dragon was attached to an Arctic convoy to Murmansk. In March 1944, the Dragon was assigned to the naval forces that would take part in the invasion of Europe. More training followed, at Portland and at Scapa Flow.

On D-Day, ORP Dragon was responsible for shelling German positions behind Sword Beach. Dragon’s third salvo destroyed a German battery at Colleville-sur-Orne and at Trouville from a distance of four kilometres. A near miss by a German 105 mm shore battery gun wounded three sailors. In the evening of D-Day, Dragon moved to Juno Beach sector, to support the advancing Allied troops. The following day, the ship shelled German positions in and around Caen. On 8 June she opened fire against the German 21st Panzer Division near Varaville. On 9 June, she took part in an artillery duel with a shore battery at Houlougatte, after which she returned to Portsmouth for refuelling and supplies. Between 12 June and 17 June she again shelled German positions around Caen. On 8 July, as the Dragon was preparing to support the Allied assault on Falaise, the cruiser was sunk by a torpedo from a German Neger miniature submarine that had managed to break through the Allied cordon.

Lt Lesisz returned to the Blyskawica as gunnery officer. In September 1944, the ship was sent to patrol the coast of south-west France, liaising with Résistance units on shore. She continued until the last weeks of the war to patrol the Bay of Biscay and the approaches to the Gironde estuary, which was still heavily mined and where German shore batteries were still active.

After Germany’s capitulation, Błyskawica, was assigned to Operation Deadlight. Along with the destroyer HMS Onslow, she was charged with accepting the surrender of U-Boat forces to the north-west of Scotland. The 110 German submarines were towed out into the Atlantic and scuttled using explosive charges or with artillery fire. The Błyskawica later escorted a flotilla of smaller Kriegsmarine vessels from Norway and Denmark to Kiel in German waters. The ship returned to Rosyth on 18 February 1946, where Lt. Lesisz was demobilised. The Błyskawica sailed back to Poland in July 1947, where she remained in service with the Polish People’s Navy until 1975. Today she is a floating museum in Gdynia.

Like his shipmates, Tadeusz Lesisz was torn between the desire to return home and fear of going back to a country that had exchanged a German occupant for a Soviet one. Stalinist repression of ex-servicemen returning from the West was already underway; there were many arrests, especially of officers, usually on trumped-up espionage charges. Together with around 160,000 other Poles who found themselves in Britain after the war, he chose to stay.

In March 1947, Tadeusz Lesisz rejoined in the Royal Navy as Fleet Maintenance Officer with the rank of Lieutenant-Commander, supervising the mothballing of Landing Ships (Tank) and Landing Craft (Tank) at Rosneath in Scotland. Inspired by Penguin paperbacks on architecture that he read off duty, he decided to become an architect. He was offered a scholarship at the Oxford School of Architecture by the Committee for the Education of Poles in Great Britain. Before the first academic term began in October 1948, he served briefly with the Merchant Navy as second mate on an elderly steamer, SS Arion, carrying sugar cane from Cuba to refineries in the Thames Estuary.

The five-year course in Oxford culminated in an RIBA silver medal. In 1954 he started work for a Bolton practice, Greenhalgh & Williams, becoming a partner in 1963. He remained with the firm until 1988, when he retired at the age of 70. A successful architect, he specialised in schools, churches and local authority housing, and designing primary and secondary schools across the North-West and Midlands, an epilepsy centre in Much Hadham, Herts, and churches in Failsworth and Levenshulme, and the Salesian Chapel in Bolton.

During all this time living and working in Manchester, he continued to be actively engaged in the Polish community in North-West England. He visited Poland regularly from the mid-1960s right up until his death.

Tadeusz Lesisz oversaw the re-working of the church which the Polish community bought from Welsh Baptists in 1958. The church, on Lloyd Street North, is his greatest legacy to Polish life in Manchester. He designed the interior as well as most of the stained glass windows. Inside the church are urns containing soil from the Polish and European battlefields in which parishioners fought during WW2.

For many years he was the leader of the Polish community in Manchester, at that time, Britain’s second-largest after Ealing, West London. He chaired the Manchester branch of the Federation of Poles in Great Britain (FPGB) from 1982, supervising many activities and commemorations that held the community together, passing on traditions to a new generation born on British soil. In 1989, Poland regained its freedom after 45 years of communist rule. He was vice-chairman, then chairman from 1991 to 1993, of the FPGB’s council, supervising the change of the Federation’s statute and role to reflect Poland’s new-found freedom.

To mark the fiftieth anniversary of the Katyń massacres, he initiated and designed a monument that was unveiled in Manchester’s Southern Cemetery on 29 April 1990. The ceremony – attended by six British MPs, senior British military officers and defence attachés from three other NATO member states – was one of the first occasions that HM Government publicly acknowledged that Katyń was a Soviet, rather than Nazi, war atrocity.

Tadeusz Lesisz was awarded the (Polish) Order of Polonia Restituta (IVth and Vth class), Valour Cross, Gold Cross of Merit and numerous British campaign medals. He also received the Papal Order of St. Gregory the Great and Pro Ecclesia et Pontifice.

The 11th century Persian philosopher, Avicenna, on being told at the age of 57 that he was soon to die, said "it is better to lead a life that is short, but broad, that one that is long, but narrow". Tadeusz Lesisz managed to lead one that was both marvellously long and wonderfully broad.


CZEŚĆ JEGO PAMIĘCI!


More information about Tadeusz Lesisz in Polish (website of Polish Navy)
The Times has published an obit. Read it here.

Tuesday, 22 September 2009

A day without cars

Today is the European Car Free Day.

Yes? Ewa in the office had to drive her daughter (with cello) to school. She observed more cars on Warsaw's roads than usual. A 30 minute journey took her five minutes longer today. Mariola, who came in by bus, said that the journey was longer, the roads busier.

Why? Game theory. Commuters reason that because the city authorities have kindly allowed anyone who presents their car registration document (Polish equivalent of V5C) can travel on the Metro for free today, the roads would be empty today. So they drove. And the roads were packed.

This initiative is entirely laudable. But I'd say that sticks are more effective than carrots at getting the short distance, one-per-car, commuter to give up the convenience of kerb-to-kerb journeying to work. The alternative is there. But, as in my case, it took the introduction of parking meters to wean me off the car. Winter will be coming, the bicycle will soon become impractical. But on days when its warm enough, dry enough and light enough - and you don't have to drag anything heavy or bulky in to the office - there's NO EXCUSE NOT TO CYCLE. You'll physically feel so much better after cycling to work and back three times a week.

Worried about accidents? Heart attack from inactivity is twenty times more likely.

But in winter, I'm sure the car will come back into use, from time to time. The train from Jeziorki to Powiśle (which I took today!) is fine, a fold-up bike at both ends would be useful. I have an old Brompton from London, but Moni broke the plastic chain tensioner. I used this bike in London for years, cycling from home in Perivale to Ealing Broadway station, folding it up and taking it on the train to Paddington, then cycling from Paddington to my office on Tottenham Court Road. Total round trip - nine miles (14 km). Now that Warsaw is more civilised and cycle-friendly, I may well resurrect the Brompton for winter bike-train-bike commuting.