Monday 11 October 2010

Warsaw: difficult to navigate in one's mind

After landing in Warsaw, the out-of-towner's mind soon becomes troubled by the city's street names - in particular the profusion of bisyllabic ones ending with the letter 'a'. This causes immense problems in the minds of newly-arrived foreigners trying to get their heads around the geography of Poland's capital, especially after acquiring a superficial acquaintance with the place.

I was reminded of the troubles I used to have as a newcomer to the city when Eddie and I drove up ul. Dolna ('Lower Street') yesterday. You see, Warsaw not only has a Dolna, it also has a Rolna, a Polna , a Smolna and indeed a Wolna (Agrarian, Field, Tarry and Free Streets, respectively). As well as the above-mentioned Dolna (Lower Street) there is also a Górna (Upper Street). There's a Pańska, a Piękna, and a Próżna (Lord's Street, Beautiful Street and Empty Street). A Złota and a Srebrna (Gold and Silver Streets).  A Zielna (Herbal) and a Dzielna (Brave) Street. A Biała (White), a Szara (Grey), a Żółta (Yellow) street, though no Czarna (Black) one. A Chłodna, a Zimna and indeed even a Ciepła (Cool, Cold and Hot Streets). A Stara (Old), a Nowa (New) and a Młoda (Young). Rhyming opposites too. A Wiejska (Rural) and a Miejska (Urban) Street. 

Many's the time I was appointed for a meeting at ul. Piękna only to turn up at the same number building on Pańska (see below) or at Chłodna (see above) to arrive on Chmielna (Hop Street). Talking of hops, there's also an ul. Piwna (Beer Street). When you feel like you've had enough, there's a Syta (Replete Street). There's a Kolska and a Polska, a Fińska (Finnish) and a Saska (Saxon Street). A Prosta (Straight Street), an Ostra (Sharp Street), a Kątna (Angled Street), a Kręta (Winding Street), a Mała (Small Street), Wązka (Narrow Street), Ciasna (Tight Street), a Krótka (Short Street) and therefore by implication also a Długa (Long Street). These opposites are usually at opposite ends of town, so if you get it wrong, you get it really wrong. Did I hear you say 'Długa?' Or 'Pługa' (Plough Street). Feeling capricious? Check out Kozia (Goat's Street), west of the New Town and Koźla (Goatish Street), south of the Old Town.

Famous Poles with monosyllabic names add to the confusion, as the streets take on the genitive form which often end in a letter 'a'; ul. Pola (after poet Wincenty Pol) or ul. Prusa (after writer Bolesław Prus). [Post-war street naming convention has determined that there be an initial after the famous person's surname to indicate the street is indeed named after a person - as in ul. Paca M.]

Some more bisyllabic street names ending in 'a': Dobra (Good Street), Radna (Council Street), Dawna (Ancient, Old or Former Street), Smolna (Tar Street), Spólna (Common Street), Piesza (Pedestrian Street), Ludna (Populous Street), Wróbla (Sparrow Street). More birds? Kacza (Duck Street), Pawia (Peacock Street), [the parallel street in what was the Warsaw Ghetto, Gęsia (Goose Street) has since been re-named for the leader of the Ghetto Uprising, ul. Anielewicza)] There may no longer be an ul. Gęsia, but there's still a Gęsta (Dense Street). A propos of the Ghetto, the bunker in which the Jewish fighters made their last stand was on ul. Miła (Pleasant or Charming Street).

Estate agents no doubt have trouble trying to sell properties on streets such as Błotna (Muddy Street). Ul. Chludna (Glorious, commendable or praiseworthy) is a nicer-sounding address. As is ul. Znana (Well-known Street), or ul. Dzielna (Brave, or Courageous Street). Ul. Szumna could either be Sumptuous, Grand or High-flown Street - or else it could be Murmuring Street. A propos of which there's also a Cicha (Silent Street), as well as a Głucha (Deaf Street). There's a Ciemna (Dark Street), so therefore there is also a Jasna (Bright Street). There's a Mokra (Wet Street) but no Sucha (Dry Street) - but there is an Aleja Szucha (where the Gestapo had its headquarters in Nazi-occupied Warsaw).

6 comments:

Island1 said...

I thought 'próżna' meant 'vain'—a fact I always enjoyed given that ul. Próżna has to be the least vain street in Warsaw. It looks like it's been on the verge of demolition for decades.

Interesting post, I intend to steal the idea and do a Krakow version.

Unknown said...

I'm interested in Hoża, which my interlocutor had a hard time translating. (Buxom??) Also Ul. Wilcza (Wolf?).

Michael Dembinski said...

@ Kolin - Hoży = 'Ruddy, robust, sanguine' according to PWN/Oxford. And yes, Wilcza = wolf.

Ryszard Wasilewski said...

The "a" also appears at the end of non-Polish names (who's this Wilsona person, for example). Any American who learns what Stany Zjednoczone means might have a few doubts about Stanów Zjednoczonych. How many Italians beam with pride when they see that something is Włoskie or when they are offered włoszczyzna even if they discover what Włochy means.

Island1 said...

Aha yes, I missed that one on Polandian thanks to an Internet connectivity failure—my comment was not veiled sarcasm.

WojtekWysocki said...

Dear Michael,

You have forgotten to mention the awkward case of ul. Władysława Syrokomli and ul. Ludwika Kondratowicza - whereas it is the same person, a 19-th century poet Kondratowicz who used the pseudonym Syrokomla.

In Warsaw you can even find Potocka St., Potockich St., Ignacego Potockiego St. and Stanislawa Kostki Potockiego St.!

All the best,

Wojtek
Brussels/Warsaw