Showing posts with label Katowice. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Katowice. Show all posts

Wednesday, 22 November 2023

An afternoon and evening in Katowice...

A quick in-and-out job, made possible by fast electric trains. Around two and half hours, time to edit articles, read The Economist from the front to the back, and grab a meal in the Wars restaurant wagon.

Arriving in Katowice, it is a short stroll through the city centre to get to the venue of our event today, the KTW office complex. On my way, I note that Katowice's trams have names - a nice human touch to public transport! The one facing the camera is called 'Heniek' (I checked online - there's no 'Ziutek', but there is a 'Zyguś'). Behind the trams, I see that the Christmas fair is already in place, and traders are busy trading.


Left: view from the 30th (and top) floor of the second KTW tower, the highest point in Katowice (133m), looking west. This is an excellent vantage point to witness the fantastic growth potential of the Silesian conurbation. Note the tram interchange at the foot of the the office complex. A dynamic city, Katowice is rapidly accelerating from its coal-mining roots.

Below: heading back to the station for the train back to Warsaw, I pass the Christmas market, now fully illuminated. Billboards advertise festive visits to Brno, which is actually closer to Katowice than Warsaw. And indeed, here and there I could hear Czech spoken by groups of middle-aged tourists, here for the Christmas shopping.

Below: Katowice does neon well. Note the vertical light poles, in the Ukrainian colours. Katowice has not forgotten!


Back in Warsaw, Central station. My return train was the Polonia Vienna-Warsaw express, which called at Ostrava and Katowice on the way. I was hoping the train would consist of Austrian or Czech carriages, so I could sample the in-train dining experience offered by the respective operators, ÖBB or České dráhy, and compare them to PKP's Wars. Sadly, the rolling stock was made up entirely of Polish carriages, although it was hauled by a Czech locomotive (below). I had to make do with Wars for the second time in a day (thought this time only for Polish cider, and peanuts). The train departed and arrived on time, and was profitably full. Hurrah for rail travel!


My second visit to Katowice this year; the city continues to impress with its sheer economic dynamism.

This time four years ago:
Karczunkowska viaduct opens to cars, but not to pedestrians

This time five years ago:
Edinburgh's Polish statues

This time six years ago:
Edinburgh - walking the Water of Leith

This time seven years ago:
Poland's north-west frontier

This time eight years ago:
Cars must fade from our cities

This time ten years ago:
Unnecessary street lighting wastes public money

This time 11 years ago:
Warsaw's heros on the walls 

This time 12 years ago:
Tax dodge or public service? 

This time 14 years ago:
Warsaw's woodlands in autumn

This time 15 years ago:
Still here, the early snow

This time 16 years ago:
Another point of view

Friday, 3 June 2022

Stills from Katowice

Poland's most improved city? The progress that Katowice has made in the 25 years that I've been in Poland is impressive. From a dirty, smoky coal town to a modern urban agglomeration based on shared services/ outsourcing and advanced manufacturing, the contrast in such a short space of time is hard to believe.

The local economy is doing remarkably well; photo taken from Wełnowiec DL Tower, which Google Maps Street View shows as an empty plot back in 2017 and old industrial premises in 2014. The new building is nearly finished and 93% of the space has already been rented. From the ninth floor, I can count eight cranes on the skyline. The highest building on the skyline is the KTW building.


Left: the KTW building, at 134m is the tallest office tower in the Silesian agglomeration; the first tenants moved in four months ago.

In front of it stands the monument to the three Silesian Uprisings of 1919-1921 which saw Katowice returned to Poland. I remember the unveiling of the monument in 1967 - it was on the covers of the Polish media that our families in Poland would send us in London. To me the sculptures, by Gustaw Zemła, looked like three shrouded grand pianos standing on their ends. Apparently, they are meant to be wings.

Below: monument commemorating the Polish boy scouts and girl guides who took part in the defence of the city in September 1939, a dozen or so of whom were executed after the city fell to the Germans. I am minded that what Poland had experienced with its aggressive neighbour to the west, Ukraine is dealing with right now - Poland has had peace with Germany for 77 years, but only after Germany was thoroughly de-Nazified and demilitarised. Russia must undergo a similar process.


I woke up this morning to this view - Katowice station, across the road from the Mercure hotel where I was staying. Note the string of locomotives - at least four coupled together - an unusual sight.


Below: ulica 3 Maja, a major east-west thoroughfare through the centre of Katowice. To the left, Galeria Katowice, a copy-paste Polish shopping mall, tenants including all the shops you'll find in the major malls of Warsaw, Kraków, Poznań, Wrocław or Gdańsk. Some signs of the Russian invasion of Ukraine; an information centre for refugees, a contact point in the station building, mothers speaking Ukrainian to their children, people shaking collecting tins in the street.


Mid-morning, Friday, not too busy. Good to see cars excluded from much of the city centre. Amid the urban clutter and signage - but some interesting architecture at the end of this pedestrianised street... Let's stroll down and take a look.


Below: classic Katowice architecture - the Adam Mickiewicz senior high school ('general-shaping lyceum'), built in 1900 in neo-Gothic/Renaissance Revival style. Red brick, cleansed of its former sootiness, very characteristic of the region.


Under a bright blue sky, the contrast of old brick tenements and modern office and retail space, the city of Katowice looks an attractive place to live and work - and from the top of the office buildings, you can clearly see the mountains.

This time 11 years ago:
Szmulowizna

This time 12 years ago:
Jeziorki's Storm of Storms

This time 14 years ago:
How to tell you're flying over Poland

This time 15 years ago:
Poppy fields


Friday, 29 November 2013

Crumbling King Coal - Katowice

Shot from the train from Wrocław to Katowice... scenes like this I associate with the early years of political and economic transformation in Poland, and yet, here we are, nearly a decade into EU membership, and yet this is the image that visitors get of Poland's coal mining heartland.

One would think that high global prices for scrap iron and steel, driven by China's insatiable appetite for raw materials, coupled with developers' desire for prime brownfield sites by the railway tracks (with EU funds available for redevelopment) would have cleared this mess years ago.

This is the Kleofas coal mine, closed down in 2004. It is part of Katowicki Holding Węglowy, a state-owned company. Poland's equivalent of the National Audit Office, NIK, was scathing about KHW in a report published this year - criticising the company for numerous occasions on which squandered public money on jollies for trade unionists, foreign trips, gifts and alcohol.


What's state-owned is nobody's, no one is in a hurry to get things done. Keep the gravy train rolling, jobs for the boys, whether those jobs add value to the economy or not. It is a wonder that so many companies remain state-owned in Poland, considering the contrast between the efficiency of privately-owned and what is still administered by the state treasury.

When there's a general lack of public money for healthcare or nursery education, why is taxpayers' money being spent on these dinosaurs?


High time to get to grips with these industries and clean up Katowice (where people still burn coal to keep their tenements warm, with resultant clouds of black smoke billowing all over the city centre).


Scenes like this project a poor image of the country to passing rail passengers. The Ministry of the State Treasury should step in to move things along at a faster pace.

This time last year:
Street cries of Old Poland

This time two years ago:
The gorgeousness of Warsaw at dusk

This time three years ago:
I'm so glad I'm living in Warsaw

This time four years ago:
Candid photography

This time five years ago:
Archival photos of Jeziorki's Rampa in action

This time six years ago:
Red sky in the morning...

Saturday, 27 April 2013

Toyah's latest book reviewed

First, a disclosure; I have know the author and blogger Krzysztof Osiejuk since the summer of 1996; we met on holiday with our families in Penrhos, North Wales and became firm friends - Krzysztof has introduced me to much excellent music and great movies, and many's the single malt whisky we've enjoyed together while watching outstanding films or just chatting about life. Sadly, the Smolensk disaster has left a major division between us, much as it has within Polish society as a whole. For Krzysztof, it was the deliberate assassination of President Lech Kaczyński; for me, an accident that resulted from sloppy procedures in the air and on the ground. I fear that this new status quo will remain for years to come.

Anyway, on with the narrative. Krzysztof's first book, O siedmiokilogramowym liściu i inne historie, written under the Toyah pseudonym, is a collection of his pre-Smolensk blog posts, written during the glory days when he was Polityka's political blogger of the year (2009). Sadly, the posts are not dated, which would have been useful to future historians. Because this is the pre-Smolensk, there's less rancour, a lighter tone; those early years of PiS in parliamentary opposition with a PiS president in office now seen strangely exotic.

Toyah's second book, Twój pierwszy elementarz, written in the style of an ABC primer, was written after April 2010. Essentially, it stands as a who's who of Polish politics and blogging (even I get an entry!); with everyone neatly categorised into nasi ('ours') or else as tools of 'the system' (system), witting or otherwise. Many famous Poles, we learn, are or have been agents (of Moscow, of the security services, of the system) or are (as in my case), 'lemmings' (lemingi), who passively accept today's reality. An excellent guide to the works of the PiS mindset.

Krzysztof's first book published under his own name is Marki, dolary, banany i biusztonosz marki Triumph, is a much-needed first hand account of Poland's transition from communism to what we have today. An autobiography that moves from childhood and adolescence in Katowice (or indeed Stalinogród, which is what the city was called when Krzysztof was born), through his student days, Martial Law and the political and economic transformation to today's Poland - which he doesn't much care for.

Cover art by Marek Kamieński
For those of my readers who did not experience daily life in Poland under communism, a time of "endless waiting," he recalls, this book makes for an educational, and indeed entertaining, read. In particular the relationship between the citizen and the authorities, and the consumer and the market. Two anecdotes from the book merit recounting in full.

One was a taxi ride from Katowice to Sosnowiec. As his taxi was approaching the destination, the driver recognised a militia-man (milicjant) at traffic lights and began chatting to him. The militia-man got into the front passenger seat and continued the conversation with the driver in the stationary car, who was ignoring his passenger as the taxi-meter continued to spin. Krzysztof did not dare butt in to remind the driver that he was still in the car. After a while, the militia-man turned around to Krzysztof and announced that he didn't like his hair-cut. Krzysztof maintained a polite tongue, explained why he was going to Sosnowiec (to register for his studies), but was noted down anyway. The taxi ride turned out to be extremely expensive - and there was nothing - nothing at all - that he could do about it.

The other concerns his first job. He was directed to work at the Zenit department store in Katowice as a junior radio and TV sales assistant. This was in the mid-1970s, when Edward Gierek was First Secretary of the Polish United Workers' Party, and sought to buy popularity by borrowing money from the West and spending it on the production of consumer goods, to create the illusion of prosperity. Krzysztof recalls, however, that none, literally none, of the radios (Śnieżka and Jubilat brand) worked. It was a similar case with televisions, but unlike the radios, there was demand for TVs. When anyone wanted to buy one, it would be plugged into the mains - and would not function. It was repacked, put into a store-room, and when the store-room was full, men from the Unitra factory would turn up, fix them, and place a sticker on each one saying 'Pre-sale repair' (naprawa przedsprzedażna).

As a citizen, as a consumer, in PRL you had next to no rights whatsoever. And yet if things were so bad back then, why is everything today so bad? There is a note of nostalgia running through the book, in particular to his childhood; Krzysztof was blessed with wonderful parents. And to times when you could spend blissful hours with friends, listening to music, talking about life, drinking, smoking, not worrying about the future.

Harbingers of the transformation to come - the introduction of democracy and the free market - were Krzysztof's journeys to 1980s West Germany, and for him the smell of fresh products. For me, my memories of trips to communist Poland are also connected with smell - the aroma of cheap newsprint by a Ruch kiosk, the smoke from Sport and Popularne cigarettes, that tantalising blend of damp, disinfectant and stale cooking smells of a tenement staircase

A note of mortality creeps in every now and then - so many of Krzysztof's friends have passed on; far more than would have been the case for a similar age cohort in the west. Better healthcare, healthier lifestyles, more to live for. And that sense of injustice - the children of the old communists went on to achieve wealth, those that fought for freedom live in relative poverty.

Marki, dolary, banany i biusztonosz marki Triumph is a worthwhile read for those interested in recent Polish history; an eyewitness testimony to bygone times that have changed beyond recognition in less than a quarter of a century. [It is available online for a mere 30 złotys or six quid plus postage] There is room in the English language for accounts of day-to-day life before, during and after transformation from communism to market democracy; I'm sure these will help future generations understand better this particular moment in human history, and its early 21st-century fallout.

I learn from the book that Krzysztof reckons he's got another three books inside him. I look forward to reading them all!

This time last year:
The Shard changes London's skyline

This time two years ago:
In praise of Warsaw's trams

This time three years ago:
Plans for the railway line to Radom
[three years on: what's changed?]