An Advanced Plan

Once again, as every year at this time, that hammer of darkness comes down. The clocks have gone back but it's still dark when we wake, yet we lose an hour of daylight in the evening.

And thus it will be until late March.

Damp, dark and chilly days, punctuated by (I hope) some pure winter magic - blue skies, crisp snow, hoar frost on the trees... such days are but beautiful bonuses, consolation prizes. And that late afternoon as the first snowflakes settle on Warsaw's Old Town... But darkness, dampness and cold generally prevail. Golden Polish autumn has given way to that leafless miserable damp grey that does not lift the soul; days like that are the norm in late November, throughout the snow-free days of December, January and February. Remember that the year's most depressing day occurs in late January, and is followed by weeks of przednówek, after the chance for lasting snow has passed but springs is still a long way off.

So - let us take our minds off Warsaw at this time of year - and think of nicer things. Such as... Seville.

Seville on a blue-sky day, in spring or autumn; not too bakingly hot. Step out for breakfast in the open air, coffee and toast with Seville marmalade, goats cheeses, Serrano ham, olives green and black... And then walking, exploring every nook and cranny.

It's been over five years since my first all-too-short visit, but it is a town that calls to me from across the continent. Looking at my photos makes me yearn to return.

Architecturally a contrast with the Gothic klimat of Gdańsk or Toruń, exotic, touched by North Africa, where the living is easy.

This Thursday, as temperatures in Warsaw struggle to get above freezing, Seville will bask under a cloudless sky and enjoy a daytime high of 21C.

My original post from Seville, early autumn, 2007 is here.

Return We Will, To Old Seville.

This time last year:
Poppies, politeness and pride

This time two years ago:
Gastro heaven or hell?

This time five years ago:
Roadworks on ul. Poleczki (yes - it was once this bad!)

Flamenco Sketches, alternate take

Onward from the restaurant Sabina (a wide variety of excellent local dishes washed down with Rioja Crianza) for some Flamenco muy autentico. The place was full of students, eager to see the real thing, not some tourist cabaret. Playing for us that night was a trio (below); a guitarist, palmero (handclaps, vocals) and a huge she-bull of a dancer who first hushed her audience with vehement hisses, then warned us not to make videos of the performance. Seated at first, she roused herself into a footstomping frenzy as the music increased in pace and intensity. Machine-gun like rhythms fired out from her rapidly tapping feet emphasised the passion and power of her dancing, which quickly increased in its hypnotic effect. The audience loved it.

Flamenco sketches

A two-day training event brings me to Seville, a city that has enchanted me like few others. Seville has a North African feel to it, legacy of its Moorish past. Narrow streets, houses with courtyards featuring fountains and shade; orange, plantain and palm trees, are unusual sights for Europe. Indeed, I'm brought to mind of Spanish California and its missions.

Our international group stayed at the Casas del la Juderia, a fascinating complex of former Jewish houses clustered together to form one charmingly idiosyncratic hotel (above), where the porters need maps to find your room. Below is the hotel's rooftop swimming pool. The hotel is in the centre of Seville's old town, a short walk from the principle attractions.


From the hotel, after work, our Spanish hosts took us to visit the city's main attractions, followed by dinner and flamenco. Because Sevillanos have their siesta in the late afternoon, social life does not kick off until after 21:00. We got to the restaurant at five to nine - it was still shut. We were first to eat and first to leave; the locals carry on promenading around the town until well past midnight (the Spanish walk - el paseo). The old city centre was remarkably clear parties of drunken lager louts; inland Spain attracts a better class of tourist.

Because of the city's nocturnal lifestyle, few Sevillanos were up at seven am. Plus, we are six degrees west of London, ( 37°23'13.21"N, 5°59'13.17"W - indeed further west than Land's End!) and yet are still on Warsaw time - so sunrise was not until quarter past eight! This is city that goes to bed late, wakes up late, and has a couple of hours of kip during the day to make up for it.

An interesting feature of the city is its use of colours which beautify the buildings under the harsh sunlight and diamond blue skies. Alongside the whites, the other colour that predominates is albero, yellow ochre, evident in the picture second from top. It is also used in the house (below) to accentuate the white façade.

Work prevented me from seeing more of the city than I did, but in the few short hours I had to wander around, I fired off 140 photos.

And it was hot. At 17:30, as we stepped out of the railway station, it was +36.5C - body temperature. Two days later, in London, it would be +11C and drizzling. One can see why three million Brits have left the Miserable Grey Little Island in recent years to live on the Continent.

I must indeed return to Seville. A city like this needs plenty of time to appreciate the history, culture and local traditions.