Kazimierz Dolny holds its own

I have reported how over-tourism is becoming a serious plague for any attractive destination, from Sandomierz to Prague. Kazimierz Dolny, a historic town on the Vistula, has bucked the trend, largely by channelling the ice-cream-and-cake crowd in and around the tiny market square, while the more distant parts remain attractive. Much attention is paid to the town's architecture; new houses are being built all over the place but they have a common.

Below: view from the riverbank looking up the escarpment, with the castle and tower upon it. The town's location on the steeply sloped Vistula gorge. The castle, like so many others I've visited in  Poland (Czersk, Chęciny, Ciechanów to name but three beginning with 'C') had been destroyed by the Swedes during the course of their invasion of Poland (1648-67). According to Wikipedia, the Swedes destroyed 188 towns and cities, 186 villages, 136 churches, 89 palaces, and 81 castles at that time. 

Below: Kazimierz Dolny was an important wheat trading centre in the Middle Ages, a staging post between Kraków and the agriculture of Małopolska, and Warsaw, Gdańsk and the Baltic beyond. At the height of its importance, there were 60 of these granaries along the waterfront in Kazimierz. Those that survived today serve as hotels, apartments or private residences – as well as inspiring generations of architects.

Below: view of the Vistula Gorge from the castle turret. Across the river in the distance, Janowiec (for tomorrow's blog post).

Below: similar view from the Three Crosses Hill, further back and higher up.

Below: ruins of the castle. Damn Charles X Gustav of Sweden.

Below: modern houses are above all, tasteful. I suspect the local heritage conservator has a great deal of say as to what gets built and how it all looks. Lots of white- or cream-coloured stone facings, wood and local building material, and a style that strongly reflects the historic architecture of the region. 

One interesting observation: menus in cafés and restaurants are exclusively in Polish; in four days I saw two cars on German plates, one Austrian registration and a motorbike from Finland. Kazimierz Dolny is neither much known nor much frequented by foreign guests, despite being well-known and loved by all of Poland.

Below: a nice bit of old-school photo challenge. Architecture and automobile in sync.

Below: four nuns out on the town.

Below: a herd of goats, and a stall from where absolutely delicious goats' cheese can be bought. Recommended – the one with sun-dried tomatoes and garlic was excellent. Eaten in one go, despite my best intentions to save some for later.

Below: brilliant busking from a youthful six-piece brass ensemble, Calidum, inspired by New York Metro buskers Lucky Chops. Highlight for me was the former's cover of the latter's Funky Town/I Feel Good.

  

Also of note musically was a violinist whose pitch was on the riverside promenade; her renditions of traditional Irish music from the Chieftains and bluegrass in the Down from the Mountains style also drew an appreciative crowd.

More tomorrow.

This time two years ago:
Legnica, south-west Poland

This time three years ago:
Warsaw, midsummer's day, midsummer's night

This time five years ago:
Rural rights of way

This time six years ago:
Not a whole lot going on...

This time ten years ago:
Dreamtime supernatural

This time 12 years ago:
Baszta – local legend round these parts

This time 14 years ago:
Downhill all the way to December

This time 15 years ago:
What do I want for Poland

This time 16 years ago:
Summer holiday starts drizzly

This time 17 years ago:
Israeli Air Force Boeing 707 visits Okęcie