Wednesday, 20 January 2010

Unacceptable.

As I arrived home at W-wa Jeziorki this evening, my train a mere 27 minutes late, I spared a thought for the poor commuters trying to get home to Żyrardów. The departures board announced that their train was 90 minutes late. Below: Actually, by the time it departed, the train was 97 minutes late. It was due to depart at 17:24, it left at 19:01. Quite a feat, as the 42km/26mile journey was only scheduled to take 49 minutes.


Koleje Mazowieckie is losing its way. At first, the newly re-painted green, white and yellow rolling stock looked good, the double decker trains, the FLIRT trains, new connections, a joint Warsaw city transport-Koleje Mazowieckie season ticket... Now things are getting back to how they were. This train (right) that waited rather a long time a W-wa Powiśle, had three out of its 12 offside doors jammed open, so passengers could step out on the wrong side, in front of a train coming the other way, or simply fall out of the train when moving. In the front three carriages, not a single neon light was working (it was emergency lighting only); graffiti is coming back onto the rolling stock, and snow's not been cleared from the platform. Wstyd, Panie!

Tuesday, 19 January 2010

A month until Lent starts

As my coffee tin inexorably approaches empty, I'm getting nearer and nearer to Lent, when caffeine (in tea as well as coffee) is foresaken, along with alcohol, meat, dairy products, salt snacks, confectionary, chips etc, and a strict fruit, veg and fish diet is adhered to. Water, 100% fruit juice and fruit or herbal teas are the only liquids. All for 46 days, starting on Wednesday 19 February, and finishing on Easter Sunday. This will be my 19th consecutive Lent of strict fasting.

Physical exercise - sit-ups and push-ups - enforce the will to do (as opposed to the will not to do). I shall also write more (more creative writing).

Since I gave up driving to work in July, my cycling and walking have ensured that my current pre-Lent weight is some 7lb/3kg less than at this time in previous years, so I will not have to make the same effort to get down to my university graduation weight of 11st 7lb (73kg).

The period of Lent is a good time for abstinence and reflection. The Lenten time of year, before spring kicks in, was always one of physical hardship. After the jovial excesses of Xmas and the Carnival season (which in Poland stretches from New Year's Day to Shrove Tuesday), the body and soul start looking forward to the self-discipline of Lent.

So - join me. By setting aside earthly pleasures, one can contemplate the Eternal. There's a month to prepare. It is worth it - you will feel much better, physically and spiritually, for doing Lent.

Monday, 18 January 2010

Looking back from suburban to inter-city

Turn around from your everyday views and look to see something you've never seen before. And here's something I've not noticed in all the time I've been commuting in and out of W-wa Powiśle. Across the fast track, hurrying the inter city trains past all the suburban platforms, a view of ul. Smolna as it dips down the Vistula escarpment. The 18:13 from W-wa Wschodnia to Katowice rushes into the tunnel towards W-wa Centralna.

Q: When is a street not a street?

A: When it is an ulica. Here we are, on ul. Dumki, well within the city limits of the capital of the EU's sixth largest member state. And yet, within the last week, along the western end of ul. Dumki, not a vehicle has passed. Indeed, not a single human being has stepped foot here.
Above: Since the last snowfall over a week ago, there's not been any new human footprints. I'm the first person to walk along this suburban street for at least seven days. Underfoot, the snow has the texture like sorbet covering a thin, crisp wafer of chocolate, under which there's yet more sorbet. Plenty of animal tracks - fox, hare, and birds.
Above: Talking of hare - there's one! I startled this specimen which took off across the fields. Sadly, I was not armed with my 80-400mm lens, so the 18-200mm had to suffice. The hare's gait is quite unlike that of the rabbit - indeed, here it looks like more like a large cat with antennae or antlers

Above: Still on ul. Dumki. Not a single sign of human activity. Remarkable, since we are just over 100 metres away from ul. Baletowa (below), a busy thoroughfare. Note passage dug into the snow by the householder. One's civic duty done (of course it helps having a pavement; Baletowa is paved from end to end, unlike ul. Karczunkowska).

And finally, a note for Polish -> English translators. Ul. Dumki is not translated as Dumki Street, any more than Bahnhoffstrasse is translated as Bahnhoff Street or Rue St. Michel as St. Michel Road. Yes, the Polish word ulica does mean 'street', just as Platz means 'place' or 'square'. But Alexanderplatz is how we'd say Alexanderplatz in English. It's a proper noun. So let's stop translating ul. Marszałkowska as Marszałkowska Street, please.

Sunday, 17 January 2010

All of science in a nutshell

Bill Bryson's A Short History of Nearly Everything is without doubt the best general science book I've ever read. Since buying it two weeks ago, the 687-page book (including 113 pages of notes and index) has been my constant travelling companion to and from work; today I finished it, and instantly found I was suffering from withdrawal symptoms. So I dived straight into New Scientist's website for more science writing that I can easily assimilate.

ASHONE works for me because the author is not a scientist - merely an intelligent and curious person who took on the monumental task of diving into the worlds of subatomic physics, cosmology, evolutionary biology and earth sciences, linking them all together and presenting in simple language the state of mankind's knowledge about life, the universe and everything.

I've been discussing the book with everyone I've met these past two weeks, insisting that every sentient human being on this planet should read the book from cover to cover. In particular those without science degrees. And certainly every young person before they set off to university.

The book tells us what science knows about the universe, the atom and life - how it got to know what it knows (ASHONE is also an excellent history of science) and - for me most important - is what science doesn't know or can't yet explain. One area of research that the book fails to cover totally is neuroscience - how the brain works, the mind and consciousness. The human brain, after all, is the most complex thing known to Man.

We learn just how precarious life is, and what a billion-times-billion to one chance it is that you and I are here, and conscious, and able to grasp the wonder and enormity of it all. Hydrogen, we are told, converts one seven thousandth of its mass into energy as it turns into helium inside stars. "Lower that value to one six thousandth, and no transformation could take place - the universe would consist of hydrogen and nothing else. Raise it to one eight thousandth, and all the hydrogen in the universe would long since have been exhausted." Then there are other miracles - gravity being neither too strong, nor too weak, the Earth being the right distance from the sun, water freezing from the top down, an atmosphere that shields us from deadly cosmic radiation - without which we would simply not be.
"[F]or you to be here now, trillions of drifting atoms had somehow to assemble in an intricate and curiously obliging manner to create you... Consider the fact that for 3.8 billion years... every one of your forebears on both sides have been attractive enough to reproduce, and sufficiently blessed by fate and circumstance to live long enough to do so. Not one of your pertinent ancestors was squashed, drowned, starved, stuck fast, untimely wounded or otherwise deflected from its life's quest of delivering a tiny charge of genetic material to the right partner at the right moment to perpetuate the only possible sequence of hereditary combinations that could result - eventually... in you."
Bryson's portrayal of the great thought-leaders who have brought scientific knowledge to where it is today is generally one of single-minded eccentrics, working away obsessively for decades to prove a notion to their peers. Though he doesn't mention it, RRBI and Asperger's Syndrome (even high-functioning autism) seems to have been present in most of mankind's greatest scientists.

Here's a lovely quote, one that should fill us all with the optimism of life...
"[Atoms] are fantastically durable. Because they are so long-lived, atoms really get around. Every atom you possess has almost certainly passed through several stars and been part of millions of organisms on its way to becoming you. We are each so atomically numerous and so vigorously recycled at death that a significant number of atoms - up to a billion for each of us, it has been suggested - probably once belonged to Shakespeare. A billion more each came from Buddha and Genghis Khan and Beethoven, and any other historical figure you care to name. (The personages have to be historical, apparently, as it takes the atoms some decades to become thoroughly redistributed...)

So we are all reincarnations - though short-lived ones. When we die, our atoms will disassemble and move off to find new uses elsewhere - as part of a leaf, or other human being or drop of dew. Atoms themselves, however, go on practically for ever."
And given we know very little about the inner workings of atoms (150 known sub-atomic particles, 100 more believed to exist, we are told), what's stopping atoms from being carriers of consciousness or storehouses of memory, or indeed, of will?

Memory - consider this:
"Brain cells last as long as you do. You are issued with a hundred billion or so at birth and that is all you're going to get. It has been estimated that you lose 500 of them an hour, so if you have any serious thinking to do, there isn't a moment to waste. The good news is that individual components of your brain cells are constantly renewed ... no part of them is likely to be more than a month old. Indeed, it has been suggested that no part of us, not so much as a stray molecule, was part of us nine years ago."
So - if this is the case - where do memories from before nine years ago reside? Literally mind-blowing information if you ponder this for a while!

As we learn more about ourselves and our place in an expanding universe, we will learn about those shared spiritual feelings that bond humans to their history, those atavistic resurgences that link us to where we are from, and help indicate where we are going.

UPDATE: I've started re-reading it. Going over the text a second time, pencil in hand, helps cement notions, names and sequences of events. This book is too significant to skim-read.

Saturday, 16 January 2010

Seeking the highest snow mound


Since the middle of last week, after the last heavy snowfall, the city authorities have been either removing large amounts of snow from roadsides and pavements in eight-wheel trucks, or creating ever-higher piles of snow at bus stops. Above: Plac Trzech Krzyży, yesterday. Right: Edmund makes it to the top of a snow mound at the bus stop on ul. Puławska (Pelikanów, across the road from the Scottish Restaurant where the two of us dined today. Place was packed.) There's been visible activity in terms of removing snow from flat roofs and removing icicles from guttering. Temperature today averaged around -7C.

Thursday, 14 January 2010

Views from footbridges

Ul. Książeca, running up the Vistula escarpment from Powiśle to Plac Trzech Krzyży, earlier today...

And how it looked in May last year. And how it will look in May this year - in just four months' time. Photos taken from footbridge crossing ul. Książęca. Note absence of parked cars, caused by last July's extension out to Powiśle of paid parking, plus snow on roadside.

Below: Taken from the footbridge crossing ul. Piękna, looking down ul. Górnośląska.

The building further down Górnośląska (centre, in distance) prompts some family history. Before the war, this was a girls' lycée (high school). My aunt, Ciocia Dziunia, had won a place to study here. She was at home in Horodziec (eastern Poland), packing her things, ready to set off to the station on her way to Warsaw, when her father (my grandfather) said that she would not be going. He'd received a tip-off from the German owner of the nearby distillery, named Knipfelberg, that war was imminent, and that she should not go. It seems Knipfelberg was a 'resident', in short-wave radio contact with the Abwehr, and had passed on the information as a matter of personal loyalty to a friend. She would have started school on 1 September 1939.

Wednesday, 13 January 2010

Another haul of winter wonderfulness

To my lunch appointment I go on foot across the Łazienki Park. Splendid views abound; I never miss an opportunity to visit this magic place. Above: The Temple of Diana.

My afternoon meeting is postponed by an hour - an excellent excuse to revisit the park. Over lunch, the sky has cleared; for the first time this year there's sunshine.

Right: Al. Ujazdowskie. When the sun appears in winter and shines on crisp new snow, the effect on the soul is immediate and wonderous. Below: Sunset is 25 minutes later than on the year's shortest day.

Right: The Zamek Ujazdowski (Ujazdów Castle), built on the Vistula escarpment, which today houses the Centre for Contemporary Art.

Below: Trasa Łazienkowska dipping down towards the river, looking down from the footbridge. In the distance, the tower blocks of Praga, Warsaw's right bank district, bathed in late afternoon sunlight.

Below: Across the road from my destination, the corner of ul. Krucza and Wilcza. Krucza has some impressive examples of socialist realist architecture, though not on the same scale as Plac Konstytucji. Dirty snow is piled up on pavements in heaps over a metre high.

In the afternoon, temperatures plunge. After a week of oscillation between -2C and -4C, we're suddenly down to minus ten.