Wrocław klimaty

A journey to Wrocław - however brief - holds much joy. Historic cities should work their magic regardless of time of year or time of day. Arriving in Wrocław on Wednesday evening after dark, I walked from the station to my hotel, not the direct route, but including a detour through Park Juliusza Słowackiego (below) then along Bulwar Xawerego Dunikowskiego following the Odra river. This walk added another 3km to my daily paces, and gave me ample opportunity to soak up those unique Wrocław klimaty.

Below: the entrance to the Most Piaskowy bridge (literally 'sandy bridge', so called because it links Wyspa Piasek, or 'sand island' which lies mid-stream of the Odra river). Cast iron, cobbles and tram tracks, street lamps and bollards create an atmosphere that recalls Imperial Germany; distinct from the Russian architectural influences seen across historic towns and cities of eastern Poland.

The trams that run frequently through Wyspa Piasek lend it much charm. Even the modern ones, still clanging their bells.

Below: clouds scud past a full moon, over the Collegiate Church of the Holy Cross and St. Bartholomew, with the twin spires of the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist behind it. Both are on Ostrów Tumski, a part of Wrocław that's worth visiting in its own right.

I stayed at the three-star Hotel Tumski - perfectly located for Ostrów Tumski. Breakfast was on the Odra, on the barge moored in the photo below, right. Note the provenance of the cars outside the hotel - from left to right: Ukraine, Czechia, Romania, Germany, Luxembourg and two from Poland. Wrocław, a very European city.

The trams are advertising kranówka - literally, tap water. "Drink tap water" is the slogan. "Everything begins with water", plus a list of the minerals that go into it: calcium, sodium, magnesium and potassium. The bridge in the foreground is the Most Młyński ('mill bridge'), connecting Wyspa Młyńska ('mill island') with Wyspa Piasek ('sand island'). The Odra river splits into three around these islands.

Below: more trams plying the main street through Wyspa Piasek. The ochre building is the Wyższa Szkoła Prawa ('higher school of law') implying that somewhere there's a lower school of law ('Niższa Szkoła Prawa').

Work done, it's off to Spiż, the famous (and one of Poland's very first) microbrewery in the old town hall in the middle of the old town square... Beautiful late-Gothic building. 

Below: Spiż is down in the basement. Very much the bierkeller atmosphere.

Spiż brews good beer, which you can also buy to take away. The American IPA (7% ABV) is to be recommended. Warning: don't come to Spiż for a light lunch - portions are huge. And before the main course arrives, you're treated to a complementary starter of pork dripping with skwarki (smalec) on fresh rye bread. Could have done with some gherkins pickled in brine which go together so well with smalec.

Wrocław needs plenty of time to explore; mid-week makes more sense than weekend, off-season rather than on. I have been here many times, and, like Gdańsk, it keeps calling me back. I am awaiting the chance to finally read Microcosm, a history of Wrocław by Norman Davies and Roger Moorhouse. I bought it for my father a few years before he died, it's now in the box of books to be shipped back to Poland.

This time three years ago:
Track modernisation, south of Czachówek

This time four years ago:
Swans growing up

This time six years ago:
On the eve of Poland's change of government

This time seven years ago:
Bilingualism benefits the brain

This time 11 years ago:
Crushed velvet dusk in my City of Dreams II

This time 12 years ago:
Going North, the quick way

This time 13 years ago:
Glorious autumn dusk

This time 14 years ago:
Last man voting?