"Pałacyk Michla, Żytnia, Wola, Bronią jej chłopcy od Parasola..." we'd sing this song of the Warsaw Uprising insurgents in Polish scouts; few if any of us back there in 1970s London imagined the street to which the lyrics referred (though the 'pałacyk Michlera' was actually on Ulica Wolska, not on ul. Żytnia, over half a kilometre away). The ongoing diversion of trains from the Radom line to W-wa Gdańska via Wola means I've come to know this western district of Warsaw very well, especially now that my cardiologist is here. A visit was arranged for today, so I went. I decided to walk along ul. Zytnia from one end to the other to catch the Wola vibe. The first thing that struck me – all these Polish flags flying!
Yes, it's 17 September, the 86th anniversary of the Soviet Union invading eastern Poland, the stab in the back two and half weeks into Poland's defensive war with Hitler. The road to the Wola massacre started here.
Walking along ul. Żytnia, I am struck by the total lack of pre-war buildings; architecture is uniformly moderne, 1950s and '60s in style. Here and there, memorials pinpoint sites of mass executions.
The scale of the German massacres of civilian population, conducted by SS and police units, was staggering. Historians today assess the number of civilians killed at around 50,000, far outnumbering the deaths of armed combattants, Polish and German combined, during the 63 days of the Uprising. The Wola massacre happened on 5-12 August.Wola will never forget. I found today's display of flags deeply moving. I'd guess, based on my previous walks through Wola, that some people keep national flags flying for the whole 63 days commemorating the Warsaw Uprising.
Below: public buildings also keep the flags flying today. This is the post office on the corner of ul. Plocka and Żytnia.
This time last year:
A further step towards energy autonomy
This time two years ago:
Plenitude in the Year's Fruition
Behold the wonder of the commonplace
This time four years ago
The force-field of fate
This time five years ago:
Hot in the city
This time six years ago:
Resting with the heroes
Polish employers' demographic challenge
This time 12 years ago:
The rich, the poor, the entrepreneur
This time 13 years ago:
Food: where's the best place to shop in Poland?
[I'm still boycotting Auchan for remaining in Russia]
This time 14 years ago:
Bittersweet
This time 15 years ago:
Commuting made easy
This time 16 years ago:
Work starts on the S79/S2
This time 17 years ago:
Warsaw's accident-filled streets
1 comment:
One of the most brutal and horrifying events of WW2 and not as well known worldwide as it should be. I think I’m right in saying that the perpetrators escaped prosecution with some even making careers for themselves in Germany.
May the victims rest in peace.
MK
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