Thursday, 18 September 2025

Catch the sun, make the most

Astronomical summer is coming to an end. So whenever the sun shines, make the most of it. I woke this morning before six, to catch cloudless skies that would become overcast by 10 (according to the forecast on my phone). Feed the cats, eat breakfast (scrambled eggs and smoked salmon on matzos, coffee, pressed apple juice), and set off.

Below: early sun streaming through forest – that is exactly what I want to catch this morning. The crunch underfoot of dry leaves and twigs. It's good to realise that I'm minutes by foot from the woods. A contrast from yesterday's urban post.

Below: the track from Machcin II to Grobice, under a gorgeous mid-September sky.

Below: forest crossroads, unasphalted track. To the left: Machcin. Straight on for Rososz. Right for Dąbrowa Duża, and behind me – Adamów Rososki.

Below: the edge of town, where the villages meet.

Below: the way back home. Thinking about lunch. 


Below: I get home to find Wenusia still feeding the kittens (not so small any more!). the 14th week is approaching an end... She looks a bit pissed off, if I may say so...


This time six years ago:
The City (of London) in its morning glory

This time 14 years ago:
Waiting for autumn

This time 15 years ago:
Made in England to last

This time 16 years ago:
How the S2/S79 looked back then...

This time 18 years ago:
Endless summer, Park Łazienkowski

Wednesday, 17 September 2025

Flying the flag in Wola

"Pałacyk Michla, Żytnia, Wola, Bronią jej chłopcy od Parasola..." we'd sing this song of the Warsaw Uprising insurgents in Polish scouts; few if any of us back there in 1970s London imagined the street to which the lyrics referred (though the 'pałacyk Michlera' was actually on Ulica Wolska, not on ul. Żytnia, over half a kilometre away). The ongoing diversion of trains from the Radom line to W-wa Gdańska via Wola means I've come to know this western district of Warsaw very well, especially now that my cardiologist is here. A visit was arranged for today, so I went. I decided to walk along ul. Zytnia from one end to the other to catch the Wola vibe. The first thing that struck me – all these Polish flags flying! 

Yes, it's 17 September, the 86th anniversary of the Soviet Union invading eastern Poland, the stab in the back two and half weeks into Poland's defensive war with Hitler. The road to the Wola massacre started here. 

Walking along ul. Żytnia, I am struck by the total lack of pre-war buildings; architecture is uniformly moderne, 1950s and '60s in style. Here and there, memorials pinpoint sites of mass executions. 

The scale of the German massacres of civilian population, conducted by SS and police units, was staggering. Historians today assess the number of civilians killed at around 50,000, far outnumbering the deaths of armed combattants, Polish and German combined, during the 63 days of the Uprising. The Wola massacre happened on 5-12 August.

Right: on the corner of ul. Żytnia and Młynarska, another cross marks the location of the murder of around 150 local residents on 5 August 1944.

Wola will never forget. I found today's display of flags deeply moving. I'd guess, based on my previous walks through Wola, that some people keep national flags flying for the whole 63 days commemorating the Warsaw Uprising.

Below: public buildings also keep the flags flying today. This is the post office on the corner of ul. Plocka and Żytnia.


Well, if there's demand, there must be supply. Below: a shop selling flags and 'propaganda articles' on the corner of ul. Okopowa and Żytnia.


This time last year:
A further step towards energy autonomy

This time two years ago:
Plenitude in the Year's Fruition

This time three years ago:
Behold the wonder of the commonplace

This time four years ago
The force-field of fate

This time five years ago:
Hot in the city

This time six years ago:
Resting with the heroes

This time eight years ago:
Polish employers' demographic challenge

This time 12 years ago:
The rich, the poor, the entrepreneur

This time 13 years ago:
Food: where's the best place to shop in Poland? 
[I'm still boycotting Auchan for remaining in Russia]

This time 14 years ago:
Bittersweet

This time 15 years ago:
Commuting made easy

This time 16 years ago:
Work starts on the S79/S2 

This time 17 years ago:
Warsaw's accident-filled streets

Monday, 15 September 2025

Stand by for take-off

{{ Jet powered, swept wings, Mach numbers. Century series. Guided missiles. Time over target. Congress. Rocket-launch tests. Telemetry. Research and development budgets. Radar. Computers. Transistors from Bell Labs. Air defense systems. House Defense Appropriation Committee. RAND Corporation. 

{{ Black midwinter sky, Greenland. "When will we be ready? Will we ever be ready?" New equipment coming into service, unpacking large wooden crates. Sleds. Bitter cold. Then the warmth of the officers' mess, and a beer. Esquire magazines lying around on the coffee tables. Viscose rayon threads. Continuous pipeline of innovations. All over the place. Defending the free world, shopping at Macy's. Best standard of living in the world. Buick or Olds? Few years ago, it was easy. Now there's so much choice. 

{{ That sky. Soon the sun will rise to shine so briefly, no clouds. Dawn, dusk – beautiful. Kodachrome. Built-in light-meter., uh-huh. Another beer, buddy? Sure thing. Saratoga Springs. Ever been? Nope – but I'd like to go. "Hey! Haiti! Been to Port-au-Prince? I have!" "Show-off." "Newfoundland, man, yeah, and a trip to Europe. Squeeze in some business. Defense procurement. Show off some new gadgets to the budget-holders. We have the edge. Europe's all bomb-damaged, from England to the Iron Curtain. They'll buy from us. Malenkov and Khrushchev are the threat. Technology. Thermal imaging. Transistors. That's the future. Russia's way behind". "There's a whole world out there – and who better to see it with than the U.S.A.F."! "Drink to that, bud!"

{{ We stood outside in awe of the Northern Lights. "Was that a...?" "That, sir, was a meteor. Seen 'em before." Russia wouldn't dare, would they? Well, they have the bomb, they have the bombers. "We have radar-guided supersonic interceptors. They'd stand no chance of getting through." Chicago's safe. My baby's safe. "Kentucky's safer". Damn that's another beer – nope, some still left in the bottle. Rolling Rock. Reminds me of home. Bowl of potato chips and peanuts. "Remember those Japanese snacks?" Yup. Kinda miss them. Good with a beer! Seen the Republic XF-103? They say it can fly at Mach 3 and will fire nuclear guided missiles. "Nah. It's political. Convair will get it. }}

This time last year:
Touched by Boris

This time two years ago
Clinging on and letting go

This time five years ago:
Out in the mid-September heat

This time six years ago:
Poland's ugliest building?

This time 11 years ago:
Weekend cookery - prawns in couscous

This time 13 years ago:
Draining Jeziorki

This time 13 years ago:
Early autumn moods

This time 15 years ago:
The Battle of Britain, 70 years on

This time 16 years ago:
Thoughts about TV, Polish and British

This time 17 years ago:
Time to abandon driving to work!

This time 18 years ago:
Crappy roads take their toll

Sunday, 14 September 2025

The kittens at three months

 I couldn't be without them! They grow up so fast... out of the phase of peak cuteness, now looking more like cats than newborn kittens. And yes, this was (plus-minus) the age their mother Wenusia was when she walked into my life. And now, I think nothing of having six cats. 

Every morning, the same routine. Opening my bedroom door to see who's in and who's out. Having left the kitchen window slightly ajar, so that Wenusia can open it easily enough with her paw, the kittens can go outside – but as yet, cannot leap up to the windowsill. Today was typical. I enter the kitchen, and only one kitten, Scrapper, is in the house; everyone else is outside. I fill up their food bowls and call out to them. One by one, they come charging home; first Céleste, then Czestuś, and then Arkcio and Pacio.

Gosh! It was three months ago, in mid-June, when Wenusia gave birth to new life. And now here they are, all five doing fine, no mishaps, no health problems – long may it continue this way.

The first-born, Scrapper, left, has an aggressive temperament. (Scrapper's responsible for 80% of all the scratches on my arms and legs and will not be told what to do; if there's a fight between two or more kittens, Scrapper is always involved). With wild eyes, a black nose and black chin, this is the alpha.

Céleste, left, looks like a supermodel in a fur coat. Her fine hair is long and silky smooth. Céleste really should have her own brand of perfume, so that she can walk within a fragrant cloud. She is class, she is refinement; hard to imagine that she and Scrapper are twins, biologically speaking; one shrieks 'alley' while the other embodies feline élégance. Having said that, Céleste is an accomplished mouse-catcher. Watching her eat a mouse that's she's just killed is not for the faint-hearted.


Arkturus (Arkcio), left, is standoffish. He is most likely to sleep alone in the round cat-bed. Arkcio is mature in behaviour, wyważony, neither a leader nor a follower, inclined to make his own way. Not one for biting or scratching, but neither one for petting or purring. 
Czestuś, left, likes to sleep, eat and be petted. Mummy's boy. He takes it easy, but wants to be in on the fun. Here he is fast asleep at the the top of the cat tower, head over the parapet so as not to miss out on any action (should it occur). Czestuś is not particularly competitive; he knows that there's always plenty of food around, so he tends to let the others eat first. The only one in the litter with a regular, long, straight tail – for which the others make him suffer by pouncing on it as if it were a long, ginger mouse. The other four have short kinked tails resembling crank-handles.

Pacyfik (Pacio), left, is another one for the easy life, almost identical to Arkturus, but with less white on the underside. During their first weeks they weighed exactly the same to the gram. Pacio is easy going, not showing any signs of aggression (hence his name). I'd say that along with Czestuś, he's the friendliest of the five. Czestuś and Pacio are very affectionate; these two will approach me for cuddles and start purring almost as soon as they are stroked. Scrapper is likely to want a fight when approached; Céleste and Arkcio tend to be indifferent when it comes to being petted. 

Five kittens, same mother, different fathers, caused by heteropaternal superfecundation. This happens where a female cat mates with two or more different males during a single heat cycle, leading to a single litter of kittens with different fathers. Since cats are induced ovulators, multiple matings are needed to trigger ovulation. If these matings occur with different males within a short period during the same oestrus cycle, multiple eggs can be fertilised by different males, resulting in kittens with varied traits such as coat colour and character from the same litter.  

The five form a unit, there's a tight bond between them and their mother. They play, they play-fight, they groom each other, they usually go out together and return together. For now, I do not intend to give any away, they are welcome to stay as long as they want. Below: mum grooms daughter. Céleste's long hair requires regular attention as it attracts seeds and other bits of vegetation. Wenusia is the perfect mother. When I put food out for them, she will wait until all her kittens have eaten before tucking in herself. When they're all outside, Wenusia's head darts this way and that, keeping an eye on the kittens.

On to the thorny question of sterilising Wenusia: she's still feeding, into the 14th week! Until she stops, I won't call the vet. Below: all five still at the nipple. How big they are compared to mum! You should hear the thunderous purring of them all feeding at the same time. A houseful of happy felines. I give thanks.


This time five years ago:
For or against?

This time 11 years ago:
Weekend cookery

This time 12 years ago:
Laying down the sewers

This time 13 years ago:
Still awaiting the official opening of viaduct on ul. Poloneza

This time 14years ago:
Fixie composition in blue and red

This time 15 years ago:
What's the Polish for 'guidelines'?

This time 16 years ago:
Ul. Rosoła's cycle path – new route to work

This time 17 years ago:
First apple

This time 18 years ago:
Late summer spider-webs



Kraków in the morning

One antidote to the scourge of over-tourism is to get up early and see the sights before the throng materialises. It's nine in the morning, the pavement cafés are empty, the trams are delivering workers to their jobs. There's a traffic jam of delivery trucks and vans disgorging food and beverages to the bars and restaurants, the sound of aluminium beer kegs rolled over cobblestones, of reversing beeps from garbage trucks. First tourists out onto the streets are student groups leaving their hostels en masse, hungover and disgruntled at being woken up at an unnatural hour to see some 16th century basilica. 


Below: crossing the market square, I was in for a treat. A military parade passes through, complete with band (off camera to the left). I was deeply moved as the band struck up the Warszawianka, but was quite unprepared for the first musical number (played before the column reached the square) – Consider Yourself from Lionel Bart's West End musical, Oliver!. Quite apt, really, as Lionel Bart was born Lionel Begleiter to Yetta (née Darumstundler) and Morris Begleiter, who had fled the pogroms visited upon Jews after Russia invaded Austro-Hungarian Galicia in 1914. 


Below: ulica Szpitalna, across the road from the Juliusz Słowacki theatre. Europe, through and through. But hello... what's that parked up over there?


Below: not strictly historically accurate (a Polski Fiat 125P would have been more like it), this Milicja-liveried Lada is still parked up before starting its day driving tourists around on a retro trip of Kraków.


Left: one of my favourite prospects of Kraków, looking down ulica Florianska towards the St Mary's Basilica. Tourist numbers are still acceptable. Two hours later – not so.

Below: ul. Lubicz as it passes under the main railway line. I catch an InterCity shunter hauling a rake of empty sleeper-train coaches off to the sidings, while under the viaduct a tram heads eastwards. This is Przekop Talowskiego, built in 1896-98, and it involved lowering the street level so as to allow road traffic to pass under, unhindered by the railway. A masterpiece of engineering and architecture, designed by Teodor Talowski. (It looks great at night too.)


One sad reflection; I was enjoying my coffee in the Scottish diner, behind me was sitting an English family from up north; dad, mam and teenage son. Dad was explaining Poland to them. "Poles earn somewhat less than we do, but everything here is much cheaper... and... so... [sound of penny dropping] ...they have a better standard of living than we do." 

Below: Is this Alabama? Are we in Tennessee? No. This is just three hours north of Kraków – Warka, where I change trains for the local service home to Chynów.

This time five years ago:
For or against?

This time 11 years ago:
Weekend cookery

This time 12 years ago:
Laying down the sewers

This time 13 years ago:
Still awaiting the official opening of viaduct on ul. Poloneza

This time 14years ago:
Fixie composition in blue and red

This time 15 years ago:
What's the Polish for 'guidelines'?

This time 16 years ago:
Ul. Rosoła's cycle path – new route to work

This time 17 years ago:
First apple

This time 18 years ago:
Late summer spider-webs

Saturday, 13 September 2025

My night in Wawel Castle

On confirming my presence at the opening of the Children of War exhibition at the Schindler museum, I asked whether the museum could recommend me a reasonable room for an overnight stay. I was offered two choices: the nearby Hotel Normalny (***) for 500 złotys, about £100, or a residence in Wawel Castle for 150 złotys, about £30. Naturally, I dropped everything to book the latter and pay for it online, despite it being over 30 minutes' walk from the museum. And I was warned that there was always the chance that in the case of a surprise state visit by some foreign dignitary and entourage, I might get bumped at the last minute. This did not happen. 

At around 5pm on Thursday, I turned up at the guard house at the castle's Bernardine Gate to be given the key to the apartment, and was shown up by an armed guard. I left my rucksack in my bedroom and set off on foot to the museum for the event, to return later that evening for my night in Wawel Castle.

Below: the castle's residential apartments are in the ivy-clad building to the left; the Sandomierz tower is centre; the Bernardine Gate is just round the corner. The latter is a reminder of Nazi occupation; the gate and guard house were built in 1940 when the notorious Hans Frank, the governor-general of the occupied territories had his residence here. (He was hanged for war crimes in 1946.)

So – what was it like, spending the night in Wawel Castle? Well, the rooms are authentically old-school, sparse, monastic, luxurious in a 1920s kind of a way with polished parquet flooring and period furniture. And a bed that would be uncomfortably short for anyone over six feet tall.


Left: the bathroom in my apartment. The photo, taken with a 10mm lens, cannot quite capture the height of the room – I estimate it to be well over four metres, making it higher than it is long. Plumbing, fittings and fixtures speak of past epochs, but everything worked as it should (except for the kettle in the otherwise well-equipped and spacious kitchen).

Having walked over 19,000 paces, I was quite tired and went to sleep at half past nine, waking up at 7am, so nine and half hours sleep with vivid, but not particularly notable dreams (finding blue plastic badges shaped like sails, dated 1919, in regularly spaced holes in the soil of a Gloucestershire garden). No ghosts.

In the morning, I take the opportunity to look around the castle complex before heading back to the station. Below: view from my bedroom window, overlooking the gardens of the Bernadine Fathers.


Below: the cathedral (Bazylika archikatedralna św. Stanisława i św. Wacława) in its morning glory. Poland's Westminster Abbey. Even at eight am, early tourists are beginning to show up, and the delivery trucks are much in evidence. I spend some time wandering around before I head to the station for my train back to Chynów via Warka.


To quote from Withnail and I, "Free to those who can afford it, very expensive to those who can't".  I guess that the administrators of the Wawel Castle residential apartments have a fine line to tread between commercial reality (I'd estimate the market value of a night like this would be three to five times higher than what I paid) and the need to maintain the building as it is for the sake of posterity and national heritage. I guess my 150 złotys is a charge to cover the costs and no more; this is not something you can book for yourself. You need to be a guest of some public institutions like the Museum of Kraków that administers the Schindler's Factory museum. Or, I'd guess, the City of Kraków, or the Ministry of Something. Yes. I know it's a missed commercial opportunity, but even a tourist-facing city like Kraków has its limits.

(*** not its real name, but you get the picture – nothing out of the ordinary)

This time last year:
Immersed in Dali

This time four years ago:
Pavement comes to Jakubowizna
[Karczunkowska still waits.]

This time five years ago:
My local craft brewery
[Sadly it closed last year.]

This time 15 years ago:
Time to change gear.

This time 16 years ago:

This time 17 years ago:
Early, cold start to autumn

Friday, 12 September 2025

Dzieci wojny – Children of war

To Kraków for the opening of Children of War, a temporary exhibition at the Schindler's Factory museum. It tells the stories, in words and photographs and artefacts, of 13 children, all under the age of 11 when war broke out, explaining how it affected them and how they survived, Jew and gentile alike. 

Since work began on curating this exhibition, six of the 13 have died, unable to finally witness their testimony on display at the museum. Three were present at the opening, the eldest being 96 years old. 

A small but particularly moving exhibition, looking at the horrors of war through the eyes of children. Interest in the opening was such that it was the museum cinema, venue for the official part, was crammed to overflowing, and seeing the exhibition was a tight squeeze.

A part of the exhibition – and the direct reason for my presence – was a part dedicated to the Szkoła Młodszych Ochotniczek (SMO - in English, the Polish Young Women's Auxiliary Service School), home to my mother for most of the war. Her army suitcase, filled with her exercise books were on display, which for me serve as a testament to the focus and hard work expected of the pupils.


Left: uniform jacket as worn by girls at SMO, and some of the diplomas awarded there.

The most moving part of the exhibition for me were the drawings made by Polish children who'd survived the war of what they'd witnessed. These were counterpointed by those made by Ukrainian children from Kharkiv illustrating what they saw in the early days of the full-scale Russian invasion.

Another poignant moment was the testimony of the daughter of two Jews who had been saved by Oskar Schindler by inclusion on his famous list. Mother and father fell in love in the camp, survived the war and settled in Israel. Their daughter, born there, was forthright in her condemnation of what her government was doing to Palestinian children in Gaza.

I would like to acknowledge the splendid work carried out by Alicja Szkuta in keeping alive the memory of the SMO, which educated over 1,000 Polish girls in Nazareth from 1942 to the end of the war. All three of my Saturday Polish school teachers who taught me Polish language, literature, history and geography in the 1960s and early '70s – Pani Skąpska, Pani Szkoda and Pani Wolańska – were alumni of the SMO. The knowledge they passed on to the British-born generation of post-war Poles has been invaluable in maintaining our Polish heritage in the UK.

I would also like to thank Beata Łabno, curator at the Schindler's Factory museum, not only for putting together such an emotionally compelling exhibition, but also for recommending and reserving for me one of the most memorable night's accommodation I've ever enjoyed – in the guest rooms inside Wawel castle itself. But more on that in the next post... 

There are many things that Poland is good at, and running world-class museums is among them, Children of War runs as a temporary exhibition at the Oscar Schindler Factory museum until 30 August 2026. I highly recommend it, a reminder that the youngest suffer the most when two sides go to war.

This time last year:
Ten grand a year

This time two years ago:
The ephemeral pleasures of materialism

This time three years ago:
W-wa Zachodnia modernisation – a long way to go
(Three years on: still not finished)

This time four years ago:

This time five years ago:
Back in Aviation Valley

Wednesday, 10 September 2025

Prophesy

For a species that communicates instantaneously, that has access to the sum of human knowledge accessible at a few strokes of the keyboard, we continue to be absolutely useless at foretelling the future. 

Why can't we just know when the next global war  or pandemic will break out? Or who'll be the next culturally significant rock'n'roller, head of state or iconic actor to pop their clogs*? What will be the value of the dollar at the end of this year? Will we get snow this winter? 

We don't like change, but we like it when things improve. Transitioning from a sub-optimal situation to a better state of things is never easy, but with hindsight, we see that the change had indeed been worth it. And yet the introduction of something good and new often carries with it other changes that are not so good, or ones that no one even considered as that change happened. Think of the end of communism in Poland and its neighbours. 

Because we're so utterly hopeless at predicting outcomes, because the systems and systems within systems in which we live are so incredibly complex, unintended consequences of decisions made to improve things always go awry. Mathematically, the exponential rise of complexity leads to chaos. Human life was so much less complex at the time of the Oracle of Delphi.

As a species, we are actually good at history. We remember, we tell each other stories about our shared past and our heritage. We can grasp narratives, we can shape narratives. With the benefit of hindsight, we know why this war or that war was fought, why this particular economic policy turned out to be a failure, or why some product ended up being a far greater success on the market than anyone had dared predict. We can see past cause and present effect. But we can't see present cause and future effect.

Things seem to get worse quicker than they get better, or so it seems to us. Poland's improving quality of life is something that one sees clearly over the space of decades; it is harder to observe and quantify from one month to the next.** New infrastructure takes a long time to roll out; Warsaw West railway station being a good example (the underground passage between platforms was meant to have opened on 1 September, is now meant to open in 'September'. What's a few more days after nearly six years on the job? Still, once complete, it will be massively, wildly, better than the old station.

I started writing this blog yesterday, unaware that this morning, I'd wake to the news that multiple Russian drones have flown across Polish territory, an event that no one predicted last night. Once the news cycle gets cranked up, the pundits start to spout. I've come to learn that the best predictor of whether Poland's really in a bad place or whether this will all blow over is to look at the financial markets. The złoty barely budged against the euro, staying at the lower end of the 4.25-4.30 złoty band, where it's been since April. [For worriers: Putin's forces cannot seize Pokhrovsk, so going full-on against NATO is doomed to fail from the outset.]

Pundits are getting worse in predicting the future. Online algorithms mean that wild prediction ('Germany's Economic Collapse Is Inevitable', 'Xi Jinping Will Be Out Of Power By Next Month', 'The AI Bubble Is About To Burst', 'Congress To Disclose Alien Presence On Earth At This Week's Hearing' etc) get more views than more rational forecasts. The pundits offering such clickbait predictions may ruin their reputations in the long term, but in the meanwhile, they get the clicks, sell their books, monetize their platforms and become household names.

If you can't nail down the future empirically, using the tools of logic – deduction and induction – coupled with our recent ability to crunch vast amounts of data, then metaphysics – intuition – is the only way forward. And ward off truly bad things from happening by considering them, and then expressing gratitude when they don't happen. And not getting complacent.

* Robert Redford as it happens, six days later.

** Something I wrote in January 2019:

"Walking the same West London streets that I walked over 50 years ago, I've seen old familiar things disappear and new things taking their place. The cars. The Austin A40s and Vauxhall Crestas were replaced by Hillman Avengers and Ford Granadas, then those by Golf GTIs and Toyota Carinas, and now Nissan Jukes and Audi Q5 take their place. Road signs, street lights. High-street shops change. Dolcis, Tru-Form and Woolworth's have gone. The people that inhabit these streets change. Their clothes, even their smell. We've become more hygienic. Newcomers – at first from the former colonies, then from the Continent. Things change; if we're not aware of these imperceptible small changes as they happen, their loss can breed a longing for the past. This subconscious longing, when linked to resentment stemming from the lack of success in one's life, can make one susceptible to false myths peddled by populism. How we deal with the unfamiliar is problematic. Some of us are open to the new, we're curious, we don't feel threatened by change. Some of us are closed to it. And with that come dangers."

This time seven years ago:
Comfort comes in layers

This time eight years ago:
Preference and familiarity

This time nine years ago:
A long day in wonderful Wrocław

This time 11 years ago:
Putin will not heal Russia's tortured soul

This time 12 years ago:
Opole, little-known town

This time 13 years ago:
Raise a glass to Powiśle 

This time 15 years ago:
Mud, rain and local elections 

This time 17 years ago:
There must be a better way (commuting woes)