More and more Poles are saying that when it comes to beauty, Wroclaw has Krakow beat hands down. Plus it's a more dynamic place - a huge building site that will come good in three to five years.
On a hot July day, the visual feasts that Wroclaw imparts to the eye are manifold. The architecture is stunning, and brought into sharp relief by the strong sunlight. Less spoilt by the tourist crowd, this is a indeed a fine city to spend a day or two in - business or pleasure.
Since the floods and Papal visit of 1997, the city has turned itself around amazingly. Cranes are everywhere, employers can't find people - sure sign of a boomtown, a city enjoying its new-found self-confidence.
The best bits of Wroclaw are the old town square, and the Ostrów Tumski island which must be home to the highest density of clerical buildings outside Vatican City - several churches, a cathedral, pilgrims' hostels and a seminary school packed into a few streets.
A lack of bars and restaurants means it's less crowded with tourists. To the north lies the botanical gardens, which sadly I did not have time to visit this time.
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