Wednesday 23 October 2019

Poznań by night, and in the morning

Arrived in Poznań on Monday evening ahead of the third leg of our HR Review 2019 roadshow. Trains from Warsaw to Poznań still not running as they should - three hours to cover 300km is a poor show. That's an average speed of 60mph (100km/h). At least there's no diversion via Gniezno any more... Anyway, the PKP InterCity train itself was fine. A long train, that split in two in Poznań, with half heading west to Berlin, the other half heading north-west to Szczecin. Both halves had dining cars, so a choice of two. Making up for all those InterCity trains without any dining facilities.

Our hotel was Apartamenty Wodna 12 (don't mix up ulica Wodna for ulica Wożna, the very next street along!), well situated for our event venue and for the old town. After an excellent Indian meal at the Taj Mahal (the price list on the menu looked identical to one in any Indian restaurant in London, except the numbers were expressed in zlotys rather than pounds), there was time for a stroll around Poznań's old town.

The weather was excellent for late October - the climate change dividend. No coats required, even at around ten pm. But long after the main holiday season has ended, the old town is quiet, many places to sit and eat.


Poznań boasts many diverse restaurants - at least three Indians to choose from. Left: the neon sign of a Mexican restaurant at the end of the street. If I hadn't been full of an Indian, a trio of tacos would have been good.

There's a graffiti problem. Poznań should wage war against it, instantly painting over tags.

Right: I do love the recently re-cobbled streets in and around the old town square. Even when bone-dry they glisten, reflecting the light, adding immensely to the atmosphere, especially at night.

Below: the old town square is full of hustlers trying to get you to eat at one of the restaurant there. I don't like them - they are a foretaste of how a nice city can get over-touristed. The hucksters and the barkers - the AUSCHWITZ - SALT MINES - SCHINDLER'S FACTORY - CHEAP! syndrome - are what turned Kraków into an old town to avoid.


Left: Poznań's basilica, former parish church, at the end of ul. Świętosławska. Well-chosen street lighting adds to the charm of the scene. [More from Poznań's old town by day in this post.]

Below: I was delighted to wake up on Tuesday and behold this sight - the rooftops and skyline of the old town with the basilica and town hall in shot.

Below: the old-town remont has extended to Plac Kolegiacki; all coming along rather well. Poznań is very much a business town, its local economy boasts the lowest unemployment anywhere in Poland (1.2% at the end of August 2019); very much worth a visit whether for business or pleasure.


This time two years ago:
West of Warsaw's central axis

This time six years ago:
Plac Unii shopping centre opens

This time eight years ago:
Visceral and Permanent, Part II 

This time nine years ago:
Autumn colours, locally

This time ten years ago:
Edinburgh

1 comment:

White Horse Pilgrim said...

Train speed is an interesting subject. I can get to London in an hour at an average of 80mph, and that seems respectable enough. However, politicians and civil servants say that it's 'too slow', even though passengers tell them via surveys that their biggest issues are prices, getting a seat, and wifi availability. It seems that speed is on the agenda largely because business cases for investment are based upon the value of time saved by journey time reductions - a 'social benefit' that isn't necessarily captured in 'real money'.

Poznan looks well worth a visit. I saw it last in the 1980s on my way to Wolsztyn, and it certainly looks brighter now. Last September I enjoyed a lovely visit to Krakow without being bothered by touts, perhaps because a Polish friend guided our way.

That was after a nice trip by train from Prague (with restaurant car), a change of trains at a station that hadn't changed in decades, and a Pendolino creeping the last miles at steam-era speeds. PKP has a way to go still.