Saturday, 14 November 2026

Złota jesień gives way to grey, leafless autumn

November straddles two Polish seasons – złota jesień, the golden, sunny part of autumn, and the grey, leafless autumn that presages the snow of early winter. We're at the tipping point. The leaves have mostly fallen, the apples have all been picked, the skies have been leaden for the past few days.

Below: the farm track from Adamów Rososki towards Dąbrowa Duża. I am standing atop a heap of earth to get a better composition. But any higher, it would look like a drone photo – and, whilst interesting, would not be compatible with first-person subjective experience.

My walk today was to the edge of the forest between Dąbrowa Duża and Rososz – I wanted to photograph the abandoned ziemianka. This is the traditional Polish earth dugout cellar, built partially underground, serving as a natural refrigerator. Ziemianki are usually constructed with thick stone, concrete or brick walls, and an arched roof covered with a thick layer of soil often overgrown with turf. Below: the ziemianka from the outside… 


And here – from the inside. This image (click to enlarge) shows how Photoshop can drag detail out of the shadows and highlight areas. This one has stone walls and a concrete arched roof. Inside, there's evidence of people having been digging into the floor, perhaps looking for buried treasure.

Before electrical refrigeration, the ziemianka provided conditions needed to store root crops and  orchard fruit through the winter without it shrivelling, rotting or freezing. Regardless of winter frosts or summer heat, temperatures in a ziemianka are between 4°C and 8°C, with high ambient humidity. The consistently cool and dark environment makes it ideal for traditional food preservation.  The ziemianka offers zero-electricity, high-capacity storage that beats any modern refrigerator when it comes to bulk items. I don't have a ziemianka, but the cellar under my kitchen holds that exact temperature – between  4°C and 8°C  – needed for the slow and stable fermentation of my homemade cider, perry and wine. It feels cool in summer and warm in winter. As indeed does a ziemianka.

Below left: the path back to Dąbrowa Duża. Below right: the same forest, five days ago.

Arthaus fotografie: peeking into the waiting room/booking hall at Chynów station, the outdoor scene reflected in the glass. Nicely liminal. Lots of ins, lots of outs, lots of what-have-yous.

Below: continuing with the liminal aesthetic, the tunnel under the tracks to the Jakubowizna end.

Below: three red lights and bicycle, Chynów station (Jakubowizna side).

Below: a dull November dusk has fallen, and the train from town nears Chynów station.


Still keeping up the early-to-bed/early-rise routine, keeping me cheerful at this time of year. Eleven hours and 42 minutes to sunrise.

This time last year:

This time last year:
Surviving the gloom

This time three years ago:
Edwardów, south of Chynów, at dusk


This time five years ago:
Dealing with the Hammer of Darkness
(Go to bed an hour earlier – ignore the time change)

This time nine years ago:
Poland's dream of a superconnector hub

This time ten years ago:
The magic of superzoom

This time 14 years ago:
Welcome to Lemmingrad

This time 16 years ago:
Dream highway

This time 17 years ago:
The Days are Marching

This time 19 years ago:
First snow, 2007
(It's 9.7°C outside right now at six o'clock in the evening)

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