Wednesday, 12 March 2008

Old school Łódź

This is how much of Łódź looked just a few years ago (above). With the exception of the city's main drag, ul. Piotrkowska, the rest of the place was an utter dump. As an American once told me, "This is what most of my fellow countrymen imagine all of Poland to be like - drab, post-industrial decay". While central Warsaw has one street like this (ul. Próżna), downtown Łódź still has block after block of crumbling tenements.

Below: More old-schoolery. This is a communist era "advert" (like, people had a choice) for Pewex, as it says above the logo, the "Enterprise for Internal Export". This was indeed an oxymoronic business that officially fleeced Poles of the hard currency they weren't supposed to have anyway. Pewex shops were always full of Marlboro, Johnny Walker, Levis, Metaxa, Heineken, Lego sets - "luxury goods" that were unavailable in ordinary shops. It's been many years since they went out of business, this mural is a faded reminder of a bright spot in an otherwise drab existence in People's Poland.

Tuesday, 11 March 2008

Five weeks into Lent

Thirty five days gone, 11 to go... Weight constant at 11 st 6lbs/72.8kg. Dried fruit in the office not a good idea, hence no more weight loss. Too much sugar. Very fed up of soya-based food. Had a large plate of soya mush in gooey sauce with stodgy rice and typical Polish surówka at Greenway in Łódź. Can't say I liked it, but at least I stuck to my Lenten diet. Food discovery of the week - avocado with Dijon mustard. Sit-ups now up to 110 per day (two lots of 55). Getting towards the end. Looking forward to the final measuring up. Still feeling good inside!

Another sight that presages spring's arrival

Driving to Łódź today, I spotted this gaggle of migrating geese overhead. It has long fascinated me as to why they keep this 'V' formation and how the lead goose comes to be selected. This article has the answer to the first question - it's to do with aerodynamics (akin to cyclists following in one another's slipstream). One goose may not make a summer, but a large flock like this suggests that spring is on its way. The temperature nudged +14C today - a record so far this year.

Sunday, 9 March 2008

Poland's labour market woes

I'm speaking at a Government-sponsored conference tomorrow about the problems facing Poland's labour market. We've recently reached a tipping point. Three factors have coincided to turn an employers' market into an employees' market in just a few short years. In 2001/2 you needed good contacts to find a job. Today, employers need similarly good contacts to find workers.

Firstly - migration. Around 1.6m Poles have left Poland to work in the labour-starved economies of western Europe, the UK and Ireland being the main ones. These are the people Poland needs - the young, dynamic and open to the world. Fed up with 20% joblessness and bullying bosses, once the door to EU labour markets was flung open, hundreds of thousands of Poles voted with their feet.

Secondly - a booming economy. Those that stayed, however, have tended to prosper. Average wages are up 11.5% in the year to January 2008, consumer confidence is at an all time high - consumer spending up by nearly 20% in fourth quarter of 2007. Companies are investing heavily too. EU funds (all €67 billion of them!), a construction boom fuelled not least by the EURO 2012 football finals, and record foreign direct investment have all helped create 1.2 million new jobs in 2007.

Thirdly - and I think this factor is insufficiently understood by commentators - demographics. As the above graph I made using GUS (Poland's central statistical office) data shows, Poland's rising demographic trend has peaked with record numbers of young people entering the labour market in recent years. You'll notice that ever since economic transformation began in 1989/90, each year for the next 19 years, the number of school and university leavers has been successively rising. For employers - great times. But those great times have ended.

Every year for the next 20 years, the number of young people entering the labour market will fall by and average of 17,000 a year. Things will get really bad in the mid-late 2020s, when the smallest age cohort - today's five year olds - start looking for work. There's only 350,000 of them - nearly half the number of today's 25 year-olds. And all this will happen when the peak of the post-war baby boom hits retirement age.

What are the answers? I can see some around me already. For the last three weeks, the check-out ladies at Auchan were (I suspect) Ukrainian. I could tell by the accent and their name badges. I'm sure their monthly earnings are far less than the 4,600 zlotys that's the current Warsaw average. Other solutions will require costly policy measures. A few weeks ago, Gazeta Wyborcza stated that only one in four of Poland's over-55s is currently working. The report said that it costs the government 8,000 zlotys to get an unemployed person over 55 back into work - if that person has higher education. If not - the cost is a staggering 22,000 zlotys. I'm sure the private sector could do this for less!

Another solution is to look at the structure of unemployment. On paper, Poland's unemployment is currently 11.7% - the highest in the EU. Yet Warsaw, Poznan and the Tri-City have unemployment below 3%. (London's unemployment rate is nearly three time higher than Warsaw's!) Wrocław, Kraków and Katowice have unemployment between 4% and 5%. And in all of these cities, unemployment continues to fall, while the national average climbs. Click here for latest unemployment figures across Poland. The map above is based on these figures, broken down by sub-region. This clearly shows that Mazowsze, ostensibly the wealthiest Polish province, consists of rich Warsaw, its well-off hinterlands, and three sub-regions with high levels of social deprevation.

Radom a mere 60 miles from Warsaw, with 22.5% of its population registered as unemployed. Poland’s unemployment blackspot, the Szydlowieckie district (poviat) south-east of Radom, has 34% joblessness. The Ciechanów-Płock sub-region, north of Warsaw, has 17% unemployment, peaking at over 20% in three of its poviats. As stated in this article, it would be good for the outlying sub-regions of Mazowsze to be split from the capital, otherwise they risk missing out on getting their fair share of EU structural funds because of the province's overall wealth - all attributed to the success of Warsaw's economy.

Approaching spring getting ever nearer

The pace of spring's onset is accelerating. Sights not visible a few days ago are now becoming commonplace. Despite the light overcast, today's warmer than yesterday (+11.3C max). Today I set off with Moni along the unadopted land that lies between ul. Trombity and ul. Dumki to find the frog pond we visited shortly after moving to Jeziorki six years ago. The pond has since dried up, whether this is more efficient drainage, side-effects of new building or global warming I'd not like to speculate on. (Left:) Willows are all in flower, catkins - a symbol of Easter in Poland - are now appearing everywhere.

Frogs - Moni spotted a couple today, the first ones of the year. She's very observant, besides the frogs, she also spotted an old perfume bottle (once washed, it will end up in my objets trouves cabinet), and a Czechoslovakian imitation Swiss Army knife.

Saturday, 8 March 2008

Ul. Karnawał and the Metro's link to the world

A single track heads off from the sidings by ul. Zatorze. This is the line that joins the Warsaw Metro to Europe's rail network. The line crosses ul. Karnawał (above), ul. Hołubcowa, ul. Oberka and ul. Poloneza (all level crossings), before bridging ul. Puławska, then disappearing into the Las Kabacki forest, and then entering the Metro Depot at Kabaty. The line is extremely rarely used (I've seen just two works railcars on this line in over ten years living in the area). Over this line has travelled all all the rolling stock in use on the Warsaw Metro today. The line also forms the border between Jeziorki to the south and Grabów to the north.

Wetlands in late winter

I strolled down to the end of ul. Trombity in my wellies to check out the wetlands at their wettest. Water levels are high, too high to wade. So I skirt round the shoreline towards ul. Dumki. No sign of frogs or gulls. I did see a hare - so big, at first sight I thought it was a deer. It was too quick for me to shoot. I saw it in the same place that I caught it last spring. Below: Looking across the reedbeds; houses on ul. Dumki in the distance.

Towards Okęcie again

Eddie and I covered over 10.5 miles (nearly 17km) today on our first bicycle trip of the year. We crossed the tracks at ul. Karnawał, I caught some interesting rail movement. A Tamara stands ready to haul a full coal train to Siekierki (right), while a Gagar (ST1099) and SM42 1150 run light coupled together.