Thursday, 16 June 2011

On a musical note

To the British Embassy for the Queen's Birthday Party, one of the highlights of the social year in Warsaw. As usual, excellent food and drink - and this year the weather was kind (no downpours, no heatwaves, no clouds of midges). For me, the best part was the music - provided by the Band of the Polish Air Force. The guys were, to use the Polish expression, do tańca i do różańca (lit. 'to the dance and to the rosary'); they played both national anthems, some stirring patriotic tunes (Maszerują strzelcy)... but then they went on to... swing. Below: the band before they started to seriously get on down.

As brass bands go - this was by far and away the swingiest I've ever come across in Poland! A repertoire that covered the Blues Brothers, Count Basie (Splanky - from the great Atomic Mr Basie album) and Glen Miller, played with great verve, superb arrangements, melodious solos - and the 28-piece band was as tight as the proverbial duck's behind.

Sadly, the set was short and soon after 20:00, the flags were lowered outside the Embassy accompanied by a lone kilted piper. But I shall look out for more gigs by the Polish Air Force band - definitely worth catching again. According to the official programme, the band is based in the 1st Silesian Rocket Air Defence Brigade in Bytom.

Got home to discuss this with Moni, and we began discussing our musical tastes - and to what extent mine have influenced my daughter's. Moni went through all the artists on her 4GB Apple iPod - several hundred of them. Were they her discoveries, or music that I had introduced her to?

The result was 38% were artists that she'd come to learn about from me. A flattering reflection on how an 18 year-old rates her father's tastes in music!

I considered this phenomenon. This figure is lower than it would have been a few years ago, but even so. Great music stands the test of time. Today's music is derivative and lacking innovation. Indeed, I'd go so far as say that nothing really new has happened on the popular music scene since the early 1980s. There isn't that same precipitous watershed between, say, Jimi Hendrix, and what was happening even five years earlier (compare 1967 to 1962), or between, say, the first wave of rock'n'roll in the mid '50s and what was happening just five years before that.

So today's young people (at least those more critical ones) will be far more likely to reach into their parents' music libraries than my generation was to dip into theirs. Glen Miller and Count Basie excepted!

This time last year:

This time four years ago:

Monday, 13 June 2011

Thirty-one and sixty-three - Part II


"What is it to love one's country...? Before I tell you what I think upon the subject, Mr _______: let me ask you that question. You tell me - first."

I thought for a while. It was not something I'd ever considered; taking up arms against Russia's oppression did not cause me to engage in the slightest mental activity to justify it. Yet Count ______ could see I was not thinking along his lines. "Is it like loving a woman, loving one's country?"

The fellow was bordering on the impertinent now. Yet I stammered: "Loving one's country is not the same as sharing a tender kiss with a woman..." He smiled and nodded. "You are not a married man, are you, Mr _______?

"No, Sir, I am not" I replied, attempting to keep my temper in check. "The Russians, Sir - I was forced to complete my studies first in St. Petersburg and then in Kiev - as you must know, they closed our universities. I then had to enter the Russian government administration - five years in Turkestan - and all that time I was thinking of home - the estate taken from my father by the Tsar as punishment for his part in the 1831 uprising - and when finally I returned home, I immediately enrolled with the conspirators to help plan the next uprising - Sir; like any man of my age, I dream of marriage, but first - Poland must be free!"

The Count's eyes sparkled with mischief. "So here you are now, Sir - running to Paris - and you will not marry until Poland is free?" I glared at him. He was right. "Would I be wrong to posit that you hate Russia more than you love your native realm?" he asked.

Damn the man. He had my measure. "So then, my 31 year-old friend, you are the same age I was when I rose up - along with your father and our entire generation - against the Russian yoke, in 1831. Then what? What will you be up to when you're my age, eh?" He chuckled. I did some mental arithmetic. "1895. Hah!" I replied. "By then, the world will be a utopia, and I will be a happy grandfather, settled in my ancestral lands in a Poland that's free, and prosperous and stretching from sea to sea!"

"And what - " he asked, "will you have done to help bring about such a blissful state of affairs, Sir?" Again, he had me. "Mr _______. Let me tell you what will become of you in 32 years' time," he said, jabbing a plump forefinger in my direction. "One of two things. You will either be enjoying a comfortable exile, making a living from the book trade or wine trade or whatever - or you will be like me - keeping the flame alive for the next generation - or to pass on to the generation after that - or even after that one - who one day will see a truly free and prosperous Poland."

What is it to love one's country. I pondered the question in silence, oblivious of the other passengers, who were increasingly excited by the prospect or nearing their journey's end.

The carriage drew into the forecourt outside Nancy's railway station. Count _______ made his way to the platform, the woman in black walking alongside him. I did not follow them, neither did I bid the Count farewell. Instead I silently slipped away, and found myself in another horse-drawn carriage headed back towards Prussia - and Poland.

A month later, snows swirling around the forest, our partisan detachment ambushed a Russian army wagon train headed towards Lublin. It was a trap. My men were surrounded by well-armed infantry. After a brief exchange of musket-fire, we could see there was no point of provoking a slaughter, so I gave the order to lay down our arms. I was arrested and sentenced to ten years in exile, and marched off in chains to Tobolsk, where today I write my testament, bearing witness to what had befallen me.

This time last year:
Działkaland

This time two years ago:
Czachówek Junction

This time three years ago:
One night only - Moni's school band

Sunday, 12 June 2011

Thirty-one and sixty-three - a short story

The horse-drawn carriage clattered over the border into France; I was safe. I'd soon by in Nancy. From there, a railway train would take me on to Paris. A world away from the horrors of war in my tragic, enslaved, Poland. Light autumn rain tapped on the windows of the carriage, wind rushed through the tall poplars that lined the road, sending leaves into flight. Afternoon was beginning to turn to evening.

I recognised the man seated opposite as a fellow Pole; we switched to our native tongue from the French in which we had hitherto been making small talk. I presented my credentials, and he his. It transpired, that he was an émigré - he had been living in France now for over 30 years, since the failure of the 1831 uprising against the Russians.

"Sir - how goes the War with Russia?" he asked me, once he knew where I was from. "Not well. Not well at all, Sir," I answered, my head hung low. I told him how the company of riflemen under my command during a skirmish along the banks of the _____ river near ___ had been decimated by a far larger Russian force supported by artillery and Cossack cavalry. Along with the remnants of my routed unit, I fled deep into the forests. On my return to my ancestral home in _____, I learned from my mother that the Russians were looking for me; and that I should leave Poland. I have family in Paris, and so three weeks ago I left my mother, my young brother and my sisters. "And so, Sir, here I am."

The man, Count Adam ________, was well-dressed, stout, grey-whiskered and bald; his face expressive and mobile, indicative of the moods that passed rapidly through his mind. "So - you too have abandoned your fatherland, Sir!" he said,the slightest tingle of spite in his voice, enough to put me on the defensive. "Yes, Sir, for the time being I have." He could sense resignation in my voice, so I felt that counter-attack was necessary. "And you, Sir," I enquired, "have you been here in France while Poland rises up against the foe?" I looked around at our fellow passengers. Sitting by the Count, a woman in her mid-50s, dressed in black, not unattractive, who I took for a Lotharingian widow. She was taking no interest in our discussion, gazing instead at the passing scenery. Beside her a chatty German merchant talking to a French farmer opposite about livestock prices; between the farmer and me, a priest, thumbing his breviary.

Count Adam took me into his confidence. "I was born in Poland more than sixty years ago - like you, as a young man I took up arms against Russia. Born with the Century, I was. And when the November Uprising of 1831 was crushed, I left Poland, vowing to return to it only when it became free." I pondered the coincidence. "I too, am 31 Sir," I told him. He thought for an instant. "A good age for a officer. No longer a callow youth, prone to run at the first whiff of powder, no longer prone to take daring, though uncalculated risks." He smiled sadly and looked out of the window, before turning back to face me directly.

"And 63, Sir - is that a good age for a soldier?" he asked. "For a general, maybe!" I replied with diplomacy. "Well, Sir, I am no general. But I fight too. I fight, Mr _______. I can no longer fight with musket and sabre; I fight with printing ink and paper - and ideas!" he replied, patting his briefcase. "Pamphlets, Mr _______! I fight for our fatherland with pamphlets!"

I was hoping he'd pull out of his briefcase an example of his pamphlet, but my expectations proved unfounded. Instead, he whispered to me in a harsh tone: "Sir, I am going on to Paris to print patriotic material - to strengthen the nation's resolve. To stop its young noblemen and officers from fleeing the country they should love!"

"What is it to love one's country?" I asked him.

[Click here for the concluding part of Thirty-One and Sixty-Three]

This time two years ago:
Jeziorki to Jeziorki - the big rail loop

This time three years ago:
Automotive miscellany

This time four years ago:
South Warsaw sunsets

Saturday, 11 June 2011

The end of an Era

At 11:51 on Monday morning, I got an SMS - as did millions of other users of Era mobile phones - that the brand is no longer. We shall have to get used to calling it T-Mobile.

This must be one of the most expensive re-branding exercises in corporate Poland. Tuesday's Gazeta Wyborcza was published on T-Mobile pink paper, a full-page ad on every other page in the front half of the main section. Happy people, soap bubbles. Billboards everywhere with the same images.

It will take months to change all the shops, franchised points-of-sale, stationary and software (five days on, and my phone still identifies the network with the old name, for instance).

I'm not a fan of such splurges on re-branding. Much of the ad spend is completely unnecessary - I mean what do we, the users, who pay significant bills each month, have to say about it? Some corporate control-freak on the T-Mobile board determines that it is to be done - and that's it.

I remember when Commercial Union Polska rebranded itself, in a similar global exercise, Aviva. There was a huge billboard, several stories high, on ul. Puławska by Wałbrzyska, with the new logo. As the bus I was on approached it, I heard a middle-aged man in front of me explain it to his fellow-passenger as follows. "Commercial Union has had a hard time during this economic crisis and now some unknown Spanish insurer has bought the whole company". As it was, Commercial Union/Aviva was, at the time, running Poland's second largest pension fund.

I doubt that the growth of Orange, one of T-Mobile's competitors on the Polish mobile telephony market, made much headway as a result of re-branding itself from Idea, itself a re-branding from Centertel, the operator's original name.

Things change. One must get used to that. So many British brands that I associate so intimately with my West London childhood have disappeared for good - AEC buses (the iconic Routemaster, built in Southall, a few miles from our Hanwell home), the Vickers and de Havilland aircraft that flew into Heathrow Airport for BEA and BOAC, the Morris, Austin, Triumph, Hillman, Singer, Humber and Standard cars that would be seen on British roads. Those brands have gone - merged, swallowed up or plain gone bankrupt - yet buses, aircraft and cars are seen in greater numbers than ever.

Remember it this way...

When I got my Era number - oooh, 12 years ago now, it was a company phone, all employees where I then worked had Era. So bad was reception, so patchy the coverage, so unreliable the handsets and so huge the bills, we'd call the network 'CholEra'. Since then, the operator has (because of the tremendous competition in this market*) brought about incredible improvements in service. So I can't say I have any major gripes today.Will the change to T-Mobile affect levels of customer satisfaction positively or adversely? We shall see. I can't say as a user (and payer of my children's phone bills too) that I'm too happy with the size and cost of the re-branding.

* Wherever there's tremendous competition in Poland, things generally work. Wherever there isn't - viz. the public sector - they generally don't.

This time last year:
Lost and lamented link

This time two years ago:
Over Jeziorki

This time three years ago:
The day the bus caught fire

This time four years ago:
Beautiful light on a stormy evening

Thursday, 9 June 2011

Getting around Warsaw - a practical guide

If you're thinking of visiting Warsaw this summer, please be aware that the Polish capital is one big building site ahead of next year's Euro2012 football championship. Much will not be finished on time - although many projects are running to time.

Best way to get around is by public transport. By London standards, it's incredibly cheap. A central zone one-day travel card currently* costs 9 zlotys - ₤2. Which you can use before 9:30am if you so wish. An both-zone one-day travel card costs 14 zlotys - ₤3.10. To put this into perspective, a pre-9:30 one day travel card for zones 1-4 (roughly the same radius of travel as Warsaw's central zone) costs ₤10, while zones 1-6 (a similar radius of travel as Warsaw's central and outer zones) costs ₤15. So Warsaw's five times cheaper (while wages are but three times lower). If you buy a quarterly ticket, Warsaw's seven times cheaper.

Here's my quick guide to Warsaw public transport in plain English.

Warsaw's public transport authority is ZTM, which operates buses, trams, the Metro and some local rail services (SKM). ZTM travelcards (from one- to 90-day validity) are also good on Koleje Mazowieckie (Mazowsze Province trains) and WKD (the suburban light rail line heading out to Grodzisk Mazowiecki and Milanówek rather than the alcopop).

There are but two zones; the first zone extends to about a ten-mile (16km) radius from the city centre, the second about 15 miles (25km) from the centre.

The key thing to remember, when visiting Warsaw, is that whatever ticket you choose - from 20 minutes to 90 days - you need to validate it on your first journey using it. As soon as you get on your first bus or tram or SKM train, head for the bright yellow ticket validator. If you have a card ticket (20-minute, one-day, three-day, seven-day or single journey), put it into the slot face-up. The machine will make a whirring sound, then emit a double-beep, and a green light will show and your ticket will re-emerge. When you remove it, you'll see an expiry time and date will have been printed on the reverse.

A travel card for a longer period (30 days, 90 days) has to be acquired from the ZTM office. This can be done on-line (you need to submit a digitised photo of yourself). You can also customise the design of the card as you want it (here, for example, is mine). Sadly, the English version of the web page is so badly translated, I shudder to think how someone not knowing Polish could possibly work out how use it.

Bus stops - ones with a green outline around the number of the bus are request stops - you need to flag down buses to stop them. If your destination stop is 'na żądanie' (request), you'll need to press the red button in good time (green button on the old Ikarus buses). Newer buses will require you to press a blue (sometimes red) button by the door to open it once the bus has come to a halt at a bus stop.

Information given at bus stops and on buses is precise and generally (outside of rush-hour korki or jams) buses run to time. Trams cut through traffic jams, although woe betide tram passengers should one tram break down on a busy line. Tram jams of 10-15 stationary trams are a dramatic sight to behold.

It's been two years since paid parking came to Powiśle and I gave up driving to work on a daily basis. I'm much wealthier for it. A tankful of petrol, which I would use up in a fortnight's commuting, costs as much as a quarterly ZTM travelcard (196 zlotys). The travelcard is so cheap it's no problem when I have a day off or else I use my bike.

Coming back to practical issues to do with getting around Warsaw - many city centre roads are closed. Świętokrzyska and Prosta (building of second line of Metro), Nowowiejska (upgrading tram tracks), Targowa (ditto), Sokola - to do with building the National Stadium.

Above: Most Poniatowskiego, behind it, across the river to the left, the new National Stadium, under construction. Ul. Targowa is being dug up, so trams routes north of Rondo Waszyngtona are being diverted Below: Ul. Nowowiejska (lit. 'Newvillagey Street) also bereft of trams.

And, as I've mentioned, Dworzec Centralny aka W-wa Centralna, the Central Station, is currently being modernised - total chaos - (allow an extra 10-15 minutes to find your way to the platform as passageways and staircases are closed - below).

Dworzec Wschodni aka W-wa Wschodnia, the Eastern Station, is also being refurbished. Ironically, Dworzec Zachodni aka W-wa Zachodnia, the Western Station, seems to be left as it is - a museum letting you the public experience at first hand how the communist system used to humiliate citizens by not offering them information or service.

UPDATE 16 June - ul. Nowowiejska is now re-opened to tram and vehicle traffic.

* Fare rises are due at the end of August.

This time last year:
Lessons for local policy-makers

This time three years ago:
Recycling for fun and profit

This time four years ago:
Giant dandelion clocks

Tuesday, 7 June 2011

Cara al Sol - Part II



The rage within Ramón would not abate as he thought about Capitán Jesús Méndez; that fat human cockroach, that evil piece of excrement. He, Ramón must slay him. Yet was that not a mortal sin? Would his soul not be condemned to everlasting damnation? It did not take Ramón long to overcome that objection. Captain Méndez was not a human being. He was a beast in human form - an oily rat walking upright on two legs, devoid of any human feeling, lacking a conscience, lacking the slightest breath of divine spirit... it would be best to destroy that beast. A single bullet to despatch this incarnation of evil. A swift act, like stamping on an earwig; a bold act, like the estocada in the bullring, a quick, clean death, devoid of gloating or triumph or revenge...

The wine swirled in Ramón's head. He was aware that he was not thinking clearly. The consequences would be clear - murdering an officer of the Guardia Civil - sentence - death by garotte. Extenuating circumstances - he was only defending the honour of his daughters - might mean a life of penal labour. And besides, no one could call him, a devout Catholic, a Republican sympathiser, despite his brother living in exile.

Ramón wrestled with his conscience. "Is it, or is it not, God's will that I should assassinate Captain Méndez?" he asked himself as he dipped his face into a enamelled bowl full of cool water. He fancied that the voice of the Holy Ghost had visited upon him, bearing the simple message "No." And then he boiled up with rage and self-hatred again, slamming both fists on the table. "I - I am the runt of my mother's litter, impotent in the face of evil and injustice!" The torment continued within. "Shall I fight this intolerable weakness of mine? Or should I think of my family, without me, a husband and father behind bars..."

He stood up, still wracked with indecision. Another glass of wine. Too many. He'd go for a walk in the night air, to clear his head. The Guardia Civil patrol would be on the streets. Maybe Captain Méndez. But there'd be two of them. Even if he slayed Méndez, the other one would identify him... He could not kill another. He was beyond caring, beyond thinking it through. No plan - just go for a walk on the empty streets, gun in the front pocket of his glazier's overalls. See what would happen. Probably - he thought - nothing. A short walk, he told himself, and to bed.

In the empty cobbled street, the anger flared up within him again. He pictured himself in court, defending himself on a charge of premeditated murder, and imagined what he'd be telling the judge. He'd denounce Méndez as inhuman, fitting in with society's rules simply so that he could be top dog, to bully, to strut about, to belittle - a man not at one with the life of Jesus - his namesake; a man neither meek nor caring about his fellow man - indeed, not a man at all. Above all, he, Ramón, was a father defending his daughters from the bestial attentions of this monster.

Crazy. Conflicting thoughts clashed in his head. Even as he sobered up in the cool autumn air, Ramón was still unable to think clearly, to decide, to plan. "Méndez has won the ultimate victory - he has rendered me impotent! Without even thinking about me! Without even willing it!" Ranting to himself, he headed up the Calle General Franco towards the bullring, angrily kicking an empty beer bottle in his way. A back door was open; he made his way up to the top tier, where 20 years earlier he'd witnessed the slaughter of the Republican prisoners. The moonless night contrasted with that sunny afternoon.

He pulled out the gun and pointed it at the spot where Captain Méndez had orchestrated the massacre. "Life will go on," he reasoned. "Good and evil will continue to co-exist, whatever." He was not happy. There was no outcome. So often, such was life. No great dramatic gesture, no sacrifice, no clarity - just an impure compromise. He put away the gun, went home and hid it, and suffered.

This time last year:
Still struggling with the floodwaters

This time two years ago:
European elections

This time three years ago:
To the Vistula, by bike

This time four years ago:
Poppy profusion

Monday, 6 June 2011

Cara al sol - a short story

Ramón picked the revolver off the kitchen table and felt its weight in has hand. He broke it open, examining it in the candlelight. The six bullets were still there, as they were on the day he found it, discarded on the battlefield, abandoned by some Republican officer nearly 20 years ago. He'd kept that gun, kept it hidden, all those years - not even his mother nor his wife knew about it. It was a big revolver. A British-made Webley, firing big bullets. This gun was the final argument. With it in his hand, he had power of life or death.

Over another glass of red table wine, he contemplated what he'd do with it, as he'd contemplated so many times before. Yet now, there was even more reason to do so. His family were fast asleep in the back room - his wife and his two daughters. His mind wandered, oh, it wandered. So often if would wander, bidden or unbidden, to that summer afternoon in 1939, a few months after then end of the Civil War, to the town's dusty bullring. Ramón, then a young glazier's apprentice, had been working that day under a glaring sun up in the top tier of the bullring, replacing some stained glass windows that had been missing since the war passed briefly through the town two years earlier.

There was a clamour outside; the puertas de los toriles were open and a large group of local Republican sympathisers were herded in by the Guardia Civil at rifle point. Behind them trooped in a shabby brass band. A lorry drove in. Out jumped Capitán Jesús María Méndez y Castrejon, who Ramón had long known - the classmate of his oldest brother, Raúl. The Guardia Civil captain was renowned in the district as a ruthless man of extreme cruelty, a man who Ramón's brother had hated since childhood. Captain Méndez stood amid the prisoners, haughty in his polished tricorn hat, a look of disdain on his face. He drew a pistol from his holster, and holding it high, started shouting angry commands at his men. The musicians, who had positioned themselves up in the grandstands, took up their instruments, and struck up a discordant version of the Falangist anthem, Cara al sol.

As they did so, Captain Méndez aimed his pistol at a prisoner's head. And he pulled the trigger - a loud retort, the man toppled over into the sand. His gunshot was the signal to his men to open fire into the prisoners, seemingly at random; staccato rifle fire burst out all around, a dirty, untidy slaughter, a comedic massacre... Looking down, Ramón crossed himself instinctively. He watched men fall - men he knew - from school, from Saturday afternoons at the bullring, from the bar; he watched the blood pouring out onto the arena, like bulls' blood, yet not. Their piteous calls for mercy were met with jagged, halting laughter, foul curses and more gun fire. Rifles would jam, then the bullets began running out; many wounded men writhed around in the sand. Their piteous cries mingled with the ragged march of the brass band... "Formaré junto a mis compañeros/ que hacen guardia sobre los luceros..."

Ramón looked around the arena for his middle brother, Rafael. He hoped that the one child who had defied their God-fearing mother and had committed to the Republican cause, had escaped the round-up. Down in the ring, Méndez gesticulated wildly, shouting angrily at his men to finish the job ; bayonets were fixed and half-heartedly plunged into fallen bodies. This obscene spectacle of inhuman butchery went on for maybe half an hour.

Ramón prayed for their souls. He prayed that God would receive them, even those who had desecrated the Cross and had supported anti-clericalism during the Republican period.

And so, over those bleak post-war years, that image of Captain Méndez, strutting around the blood-soaked bullring in his black tricorn hat, crouching down to put a bullet into a wounded men pleading for his life - would stay with him in his waking nightmares for the next two decades. They were local men, family men - how could he have done such a thing! That very same Captain Méndez, now a portly middle-aged man, would patrol their small Extremaduran town, strutting with that same arrogance; his haughty gaze demanding subservience from all but the mayor, the parish priest and the wealthiest of landowners.

Ramón had hated Captain Méndez for as long as he could remember. Rafael had managed to escaped to exile in France, but the fact that Ramón had a godless Republican brother abroad, remitting French francs to his family back home, marked him down for particular harassment from the authorities. His small glazing business would be subject to all sorts of controls and tax inspections.

But Ramón had a new reason for reaching for that revolver that autumn night in 1957, and imagining what it would do to the innards or brain of Captain Méndez; the vile man had taken a shine to his two teenage daughters. The filthy man would sit close to Ramón's family during Holy Mass, leering at the girls. What depraved thoughts were going through his head? The Captain would observe the girls walking up and down the main street, watching them... watching them... Ramón knocked back another glass of wine, chased back with a handful of olives, and, raising his revolver, considered his options.

[Part II of Cara al sol here]

This time last year:
Of pumps and film crews

This time two years ago:
To Góra Kalwaria and beyond

This time three years ago:
Unbridled development

Sunday, 5 June 2011

Beauty at the end of the day

Warsaw's weather has settled into entirely agreeable (if maybe a tad too hot) summer pattern; skies with thin clouds that presage gorgeous sunsets. And where better to shoot me some mood-enhancing photos but from the end of the road, across the tracks - flat fields, trees.

Above: Still half an hour to go, but the sun has descended behind a meagre bank of cloud casting a golden light on the surrounding fields. This - as I've mentioned many times before - is the Magic Hour, beloved of film makers; that golden time of day. The effect it has on the human spirit is entirely mellow; a sublime frame of mind ensues.

As the earth spins from west to east, so the sun appears to settle towards the western horizon. Well, at this time of year, the north-western horizon. In the distance, roof tops of Dawidy.

Through the elderflower trees, the setting sun sets the sky afire; the end of the day wreathed in beauty and the weather set fair for tomorrow. The night now is less than eight hours long; the sun will rise at 4:30.

On weekend days like this, when nothing else is going on, it is a waste not to take time out to witness the setting of the sun and to participate in that majestic sense of spiritual wellness that doing so engenders.

I'd be interested to know what neurobiology ascribes this particular feeling of euphoria brought on about by nature's light show at the end of the day, an explanation for the sublime nature of a summer dusk.

This time last year:
Jeziorki's flood of floods slowly subsides

This time two years ago:
Black-and-white homage to Ansel Adams