The gradual passing of old Poland

The suicide two months ago of former deputy premier Andrzej Lepper, leader of Samoobrona, a populist, potato-throwing political party that was once in a government coalition, caused me to reflect on how Poland is marching inexorably in the right direction.

In particular, a reportage in Gazeta Wyborcza about his last days, showed how unsustainable were the old ways of doing things in Poland. The article showed Lepper's business model - borrowing money from dubious sources to fund political campaigns, then paying back the lenders with political favours. It all went wrong when he and his party failed to win re-election in the 2007 parliamentary elections. In increasing desperation, Lepper went around seeking new ways to raise funds. He would say nice things about the Belarusian regime, and then trade his new-found (though illusory) influence in Minsk for introductions which he'd sell to Polish entrepreneurs keen to do business across the border.

Reading the article, I could feel a whiff of that dank staleness (stęchlizna) that once permeated Poland's elites, but is now definitely on the retreat. Poland is modernising; the EU, foreign direct investment, mass migration and the modern media are all helping re-shape the country into something more normal, more similar to the western Europe than to Russian Eurasia.

On Tuesday, I took part in an EU conference on innovation and governance organised as part of Poland's EU presidency by the Ministry of the Economy. There were speakers and participants from all over Europe. Looking at the Polish participants, I could see a clear division between the younger, mainly female ones, confidently - and knowledgeably - speaking to Dutch, French, British or German delegates, and the older ones, mainly male, sprouting non-ironic moustaches, wearing ill-fitting jackets, steering clear of foreigners to avoid betraying their inability to speak anything but Polish. And these men were typically the bosses of the women. In a few years time, when the old geezers retire, Poland's state bureaucracy should function a whole lot better.

Next week, I'll be making a brief presentation to the Polish Association of Rural Municipalities about the UK Bribery Act and the US Foreign Corrupt Practices Act. The purpose - to make it clear to Pan Burmistrz that asking foreign-owned businesses for a 'cash contribution to village festival fund' in exchange for planning permission is just not on. Talking to a representative of a large retailer present in Poland, I was told that attitudes to this kind of thing are markedly more dodgy in rural parts than they are in Poland's cities and larger towns.

On balance, I feel increasingly optimistic about Poland's long-term future; economically, Poland has enough forward momentum to carry it through the expected global recession. Politically - it's cisza wyborcza ('election silence') , so I'm not allowed to agitate on behalf of any party - but I would say to those of my readers who can - get out and make your voice heard. Don't let the country go in the wrong direction because you couldn't be bothered to vote.

This time last year:
A glorious week

This time two years ago:
Trampled Underfoot - Jan III Sobieski and the Turks

This time three years ago:
Proto-park and ride, W-wa Jeziorki

This time four years ago:
Autumnal atmosphere

"...Which was nice..."

(For Dziadzio and Babcia)

[I'm reminded of those sketches from the catch phrase-ridden BBC comedy Fast Show with that smug guy played by Mark Williams (YouTube clip here).]

The official inauguration of Moni's academic year in Łódź Film School was conducted by the President of the Republic of Poland, Bronisław Komorowski. Which was nice...

(Coverage in Polish here, here, here and here)

What did he say?

"Łódzka filmówka jest prawdopodobnie jedyna w Polsce uczelnia, która jest w stanie konkurować ze światowymi szkołami - mówił w Łodzi prezydent Bronisław Komorowski."

"The Łódź Film School is probably the only higher education institution in Poland that's able to compete globally", said President Bronisław Komorowski in Łódź.

For my non-Polish readers, some info about the film school: (from Wprost24) "This academic year there are 154 full-time and over 250 part-time students beginning their studies, in the following departments: directing, camerawork, animation and special effects, film editing, TV and film production, acting, stills photography and screenwriting. In total there are some 900 people studying at the film school, taught by around 160 lecturers."

Tatuś is so proud!

This time last year:
Leonard Cohen in Katowice

This time two years ago:
Autumn evening, central Warsaw

This time three years ago:
Short-term future of suburban development

This time four years ago:
"You'll look funny when you're fifty"

Birthday thoughts on a gorgeous morning

On my way back to the office from a conference at the Ministry of the Economy on Pl. Trzech Krzyży. I miss the 171 bus; a 10 minute wait for the next one, or a 12 minute walk? I opt for the latter.

Above: Corner of ul. Książęca and Pl. Trzech Krzyży. A lovely kamienica (Come-yen-EET-suh) - the word 'tenement' does not express the concept well in this particular case.

Left: the Holland Park development by ul. Książęca. Posh, superbly located, some flats still available - and Warsaw property prices some 25% lower than they were in 2008. Today is wonderful. Strong sunlight and a top temperature of 24C - I cannot remember such a temperature on my birthday ever before. One must revel in such days; appreciate the warmth and the beauty.

Right: onwards, down the Vistula Escarpment, through the Śmigły-Rydz park. Here's a Socialist Realist sculpture; as with many communist era statues, it's got red paint on it. Eyes, lips and nipples. Not the red arms painted on Feliks Dzierzyński's statue in communist days (by heroes) or daubs of red paint spattered on Berling's statue, or on that of the Soviet soldiers on Pl. Wileński these days (by vandals)... but red nonetheless.

Below: fountains in Śmigły-Rydz Park. The trees are starting to turn to gold; may this October be as sunny as it was last year.

I'm still feeling 34 (I have 20 years experience of being 34). In my waking consciousness and in my dreams, I am indeed still in my mid-30s, and I get a shock when walking past a mirror and suddenly realise that my exterior apparition is out of kilter with the way I feel about myself.

I get to the office and find a large walnut cream cake and a bottle of South African Pinotage on my desk! Thanks guys!

Still, I have wonderfully fit parents (88 and 84 respectively); genetic factors and lifestyle are both important predictors of one's lifespan. I'm happier within myself than I've ever been - and so, roll on my 55th birthday!

This time last year:
Birthday treat

This time two years ago:
Autumnal bike ride

This time three years ago:
An embarrassment of abundance

This time four years ago:
Upon my 50th birthday (I was right to be optimistic!)

Mobile and intelligent

Left: I am a sentient being, moving intelligently across the face of the Earth, aware of the changing seasons, breathing in the scents of the forest floor, feeling the cool autumn morning on my skin. My awareness is tingling with the excitement of being alive, I'm acutely conscious of my place upon the planet, and my planet's place in the grander scheme of things. My journey to work, through the Las Kabacki forest; and on along the cyclepaths of Ursynów to Dolina Służewiecka. A beautiful ride, so good for the heart and the soul.

Below: I am snarling, frustrated; I have the power of 177 horses at my command, four driven wheels, leather seats, air conditioning, darkened rear windows and a fully featured in-car entertainment. Yet tonight I cannot move any faster than a pedestrian. And I am still 15km from home. Ul. Puławska, solid, all the way to Piaseczno. But that's not me. I'm on my bike; I can nip through this seething mass of motorised frustration. And they hate me for it.

This time last year:
Unadopted

Poland's roads: not fit for purpose

Coming back from Łódź, I decide to go back via Łowicz and Sochachew, to avoid the contraflows and the inevitable chaos around Janki. The road's a bit longer - 150km or so. I get out of Łódź easily enough, and past the new motorway junction at Stryków (where a gigantic Ozymandias-scale statue commemorating Poland's deadbeat infrastructure ministers should be built) and straight into jams. Long jams - each several kilometres in length - where cars are crawling along at a pedestrian pace.

Below: worry not - I'm not photographing while driving along at speed. The car's safely at rest, handbrake on, engine off, waiting for some signs of movement.

My journey home - 150km - takes four hours. Average speed is 37.5kmh (or an utterly pathetic 23mph). It's faster than cycling the distance - just. Taking the car today was fully justified, given the amount of stuff that needed to be lugged down to Łódź; today public transport was not an option.

With parliamentary elections coming up next week, and a mere one percentage point in the polls between PO and PiS, what can I say except that every single infrastructure minister Poland's had since 1990 has been as useless as the one before.

Left: between Stryków and Łówicz - a striking ad for a tyre, exhaust and oil-change garage. How will the business fare once the A2 motorway finally gets to run all the way to Warsaw?

Today I could clearly see just how badly Poland's roads affect the nation's competitiveness. Until this is sorted, foreign investors looking to set up factories here will have a problem.
Vote wisely next Sunday.

Papa say goodbye it's Independence Day

Thirty five years ago today I left home to go to university; now it's time for me to take my first-born child to university. I'm immensely proud that Moni got in to Łódź Film School on the screenwriting course (six places, 103 candidates submitted portfolios). An internationally recognised centre of excellence (the city and school get name-checked here). Wajda, Polański and Zanussi studied their craft here. Above: Moni is packed and ready to go. Below: Moni's friends and bandmates Hubert (percussion) and Oleńka (guitar) turn up unexpectedly to see her off. After a breakfast of re-heated curry left-overs, we pack the car (books, clothes, disco mirror-ball, bike, rat) and bid an emotional farewell. Moni and I set off for Łódź - a mere 83 miles (132 km) away. "You are the bows from which your children as living arrows are sent forth" (Kahlil Gibran, The Prophet). Today the Archers sent forth the first Arrow. As we left Jeziorki, Moni requested that we listen to Bird on a Wire, by Leonard Cohen, whilst I then put on Independence Day by Bruce Springsteen. The journey there isn't too bad - it's a sunny Sunday morning, so despite the many contraflows on the Gierkówka and the abysmal rural road from Tomaszów Maz. to Łódź, it takes us two hours and 20 minutes, taking it easy (average speed 35mph/57kmh). Above: Moni's new place of abode - a quiet cul-de-sac close to ul. Piotrkowska, Łódź's main drag, and just over 1km from the film school, and 2.5km from Łódź Fabryczna station. We unpacked the car, went shopping for bulky basics, and then I set off back towards Warsaw - a hellish journey - four hours to cover the 150km home. But that is another story... This time last year: Out and about in Jeziorki This time two years ago: Funeral of Lt. Cmdr. Tadeusz Lesisz This time three years ago: Puławska by night

Detroit's finest cruises thru' Jeziorki

On my way to town with Eddie for a last supper with Moni before she departs for university tomorrow morning, we saw this immaculately beautiful red Cadillac Eldorado convertible crossing the tracks at Jeziorki. By the looks of it, a '72 model? This was the car from the novel Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas by Hunter S. Thompson.

Eddie and I both raced down to the roadway to catch it pass by. What a magnificent piece of machinery! Cherished, pampered, driven only on sunny days - this should be the fate of mankind's automotive heritage.

Commuting hell starts on Monday morning

Returning home with Moni late last night, we decided to go the long way so we could spend more time singing along with our favourite rock'n'roll anthems. There was advance notice that the railway crossing on ul. Baletowa would be closed at midnight. And indeed it was. Driving to the supermarket with Eddie, we were amazed at how rush-hour slow the traffic was - evidently much of it diverted down Puławska from Baletowa. So after lunch, I mounted my bike to explore...

Above: the corner of ul. Kórnicka and Baletowa. Objazd means 'diversion'. And 800m further along... Yes, the road really is closed. It's amazing how many drivers believe the sign doesn't actually refer to them. One after another, they passed four 'road closed' signs, until they finally reached an impassable barrier (below), and are forced to do a three-point turn and skidaddle back to the route recommended for diverted traffic. Interesting the sign says the road is closed from 30.09.2011 - but it doesn't say when it will be re-opened. Typical butt-covering.

Below: work in progress. The 'down' track - the one heading out of Warsaw - is being repaired, next to W-wa Dawidy station. New sleepers are sorely needed here.



This time last year:
A whiff from the past

This time three years ago:
Ul. Poleczki finished at last

This time four years ago:
Flamenco Sketches, alternative take